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Routes in 1.1 - Old Sandstone

"The Nipple" V1-2 5
Africa Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alligator Wall T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
American Beauty Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baker Street TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Broken Foot T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chez's Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chez's Chimney variation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Climber's Arrogance T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Curving Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dancing Madly Backwards T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Deceptive T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Dirty Little Secret T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Everleigh Club Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Freaky Face T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gargantua T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Girls Named Sue T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Half Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Has Been T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
High Life, The TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mammalary Magic T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
One-Upper T,TR V2+ 5+ R
Out There TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pacific Ocean Wall TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ptooey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sepsen Wall T,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Seven Seas TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sherlocked T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Swillbillies T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tarantula T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Team Arturo T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Uberschmidt TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wave Mechanics TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wobbly Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elevation: 1,127 ft
GPS: 43.414, -89.686 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 20,019 total · 103/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Feb 25, 2002
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

Description

The Old Sandstone formation is an otherworldly crag that lies far to the east of the quartzite cliffs we're all used to climbing on at Devil's Lake. The rock here has round edges, embedded pebbles (of quartzite, of course), blank slabs, curved cracks, and other wonders. The cliff is about 65 feet high at its loftiest point, and it contains a number of excellent climbs.

Getting There

To access the Old Sandstone formation drive 1.25 miles east of the CCC parking lot, nearly to Highway 113. After driving this distance you will see the backside of a 35 MPH speed limit sign on the left (north) side of the road. Just before this sign there is a dirt pull-off on the right (south) side of the road that accomodates 4-5 cars. Park here.

The Rozno's Meadow/Ice Age Trail heads out into the meadow from this lot. Farther up the other side of the road toward Devils Lake the hiking trail head back into the woods.

Across the road and slightly east, find a less obvious trail cutting into the woods near the speed limit sign. Hike up the forested slope for about 15 minutes and when the slope starts to flatten you will see to your right the sandstone cliff that is the "Old Sandstone" formation.

34 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at 1 - Old Sandstone

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chez's Chimney
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Everleigh Club Crack
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Swillbillies
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Curving Crack
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
American Beauty Crack
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wobbly Dihedral
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Out There
TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Alligator Wall
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Mammalary Magic
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Dancing Madly Backwards
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gargantua
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tarantula
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Has Been
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Baker Street
TR
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pacific Ocean Wall
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Chez's Chimney
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
Everleigh Club Crack
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Swillbillies
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Curving Crack
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
American Beauty Crack
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Wobbly Dihedral
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Out There
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R TR
Alligator Wall
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR
Mammalary Magic
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad, TR
Dancing Madly Backwards
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad, TR
Gargantua
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Tarantula
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Has Been
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad, TR
Baker Street
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b TR
Pacific Ocean Wall
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a TR
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Photos

I apologize for accidentally leaving a rap anchor around the tree above American beauty last weekend I wasn't able to get back until today. Thank you to whoever removed it Nov 20, 2017
Justin Meyer
Madison, WI
Justin Meyer   Madison, WI
As of 5/14/17 there were a lot of black flies at old sandstone. They can draw blood and leave itchy welts so bring bug spray and/or long sleeves, pants and a hat just in case they are still around. They have a limited season so they should be gone by June at the latest. They aren't terrible but climbing will be more fun if you aren't being bitten. May 16, 2017

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