Mountain Project Logo

Routes in 1.1 - Old Sandstone

"The Nipple" V1-2 5
Africa Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alligator Wall T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
American Beauty Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baker Street TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Broken Foot T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chez's Chimney T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Chez's Chimney variation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Climber's Arrogance T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Curving Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dancing Madly Backwards T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Deceptive T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Dirty Little Secret T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Everleigh Club Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Freaky Face T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gargantua T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Girls Named Sue T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Half Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Has Been T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
High Life, The TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mammalary Magic T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
One-Upper T,TR V2+ 5+ R
Out There TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pacific Ocean Wall TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ptooey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sepsen Wall T,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Seven Seas TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sherlocked T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Swillbillies T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tarantula T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Team Arturo T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Uberschmidt TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wave Mechanics TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wobbly Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Description

The Old Sandstone formation is an otherworldly crag that lies far to the east of the quartzite cliffs we're all used to climbing on at Devil's Lake. The rock here has round edges, embedded pebbles (of quartzite, of course), blank slabs, curved cracks, and other wonders. The cliff is about 65 feet high at its loftiest point, and it contains a number of excellent climbs.

Getting There

To access the Old Sandstone formation drive 1.25 miles east of the CCC parking lot, nearly to Highway 113. After driving this distance you will see the backside of a 35 MPH speed limit sign on the left (north) side of the road. Just before this sign there is a dirt pull-off on the right (south) side of the road that accomodates 4-5 cars. Park here.

The Rozno's Meadow/Ice Age Trail heads out into the meadow from this lot. Farther up the other side of the road toward Devils Lake the hiking trail head back into the woods.

Across the road and slightly east, find a less obvious trail cutting into the woods near the speed limit sign. Hike up the forested slope for about 15 minutes and when the slope starts to flatten you will see to your right the sandstone cliff that is the "Old Sandstone" formation.

34 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: 1.1 - Old Sandstone Change
Type:  to 
Quality: Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at 1.1 - Old Sandstone

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
More Classic Climbs in 1.1 - Old Sandstone »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
Empty
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Justin Meyer
Madison, WI
Justin Meyer   Madison, WI
As of 5/14/17 there were a lot of black flies at old sandstone. They can draw blood and leave itchy welts so bring bug spray and/or long sleeves, pants and a hat just in case they are still around. They have a limited season so they should be gone by June at the latest. They aren't terrible but climbing will be more fun if you aren't being bitten. May 16, 2017

More About 1.1 - Old Sandstone

Printer-Friendly Guide
What's New

All Photos Within 1.1 - Old Sandstone (172)

Most Popular · Newest