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4. Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass

Wisconsin > Baraboo Range > Devil's Lake > E Bluff 05 - Potholes…

Description

The Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass is located near the top of the Potholes trail to the west of Red Rocks. The formation contains a good range of climbs with good exposure and length. The formation includes an 80 foot tower (South Tower) and two distinct levels, offering good opportunity to practice multi-pitch leads. The Minor Mass is rarely crowded, in part because it is less easily accessed than other popular areas. Don't let the lack of crowds fool you. The quality of the climbs on this formation is equal to those found at the East Rampart or other popular spots.

Getting There

To access the Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass park at the South Shore parking area and take the paved path north across the railroad tracks. At the junction of the Balanced Rock Trail and the Grottos Trail turn right and take the Grottos Trail. Walk along the base of the talus slope for about ten minutes until you see the Potholes Trail heading left up the bluff. Take the Potholes Trail up the bluff and go through the Red Rocks formation. Looking left you will see the Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass formation (it is nearer to the Potholes Trail and sits slightly higher up than the Doorway Rocks - Major Mass). About 50 yards above the Red Rocks formation cut across the slope for about 100 feet until you reach the cliff of the Minor Mass. If you can locate the South Tower (the lowest reaching portion of the formation) you can use it to find your bearings.

Routes from Left to Right

5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 2
Oofdah Left
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 2
Oofdah Right
Trad, TR
V1 5
 2
Off Width His Head!
Boulder
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 1
Empty Nester
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 15
Manhandler
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 5
Mr Wizard and Tutor Turtle
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 8
Green Ledges
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 1
Green Slab
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 6
A Cheval
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 4
Great Mass in C Minor
Trad, TR
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 17
B-minor Mass
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
In the Heat of the Sun
Trad, TR
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 19
Flotsam and Jetsam
Trad, TR
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 1
No Stranger to the Fist
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 17
Pigeon Roof
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
 5
Rainman
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 2
Obduracy
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 8
LadyFingers
Trad, TR
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 2
Power of a Good Haircut
TR
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 1
Disinclination
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 2
Saturday Forever
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Oofdah Left
 2
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad, TR
Oofdah Right
 2
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Off Width His Head!
 2
V1 5 Boulder
Empty Nester
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Manhandler
 15
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Mr Wizard and Tutor Turtle
 5
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, TR
Green Ledges
 8
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad
Green Slab
 1
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
A Cheval
 6
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Great Mass in C Minor
 4
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
B-minor Mass
 17
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
In the Heat of the Sun
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Flotsam and Jetsam
 19
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
No Stranger to the Fist
 1
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Trad, TR
Pigeon Roof
 17
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Rainman
 5
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad, TR
Obduracy
 2
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
LadyFingers
 8
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Power of a Good Haircut
 2
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b TR
Disinclination
 1
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
Saturday Forever
 2
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad, TR

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

In the rocks below Minor Mass
[Hide Photo] In the rocks below Minor Mass
Go 25' SE from the top of Devil's Doorway Trail (east end) to see the view in the upper left frame. Scramble 15' down from here to a ledge where the other 2 views can be seen. Access to A Cheval and Green Slab is easier from a different direction, though.
[Hide Photo] Go 25' SE from the top of Devil's Doorway Trail (east end) to see the view in the upper left frame. Scramble 15' down from here to a ledge where the other 2 views can be seen. Access to A Cheval an…
The Green Ledges wall west of the south tower.
[Hide Photo] The Green Ledges wall west of the south tower.
The Doorway Rocks seen from 3/4 up the Potholes Trail.
[Hide Photo] The Doorway Rocks seen from 3/4 up the Potholes Trail.
Saturday Forever. Slightly separated from and right of the other east-of-the-saddle climbs. The standard finish is up the center of the top face, but up the left arete or the right crack are interesting, too.
[Hide Photo] Saturday Forever. Slightly separated from and right of the other east-of-the-saddle climbs. The standard finish is up the center of the top face, but up the left arete or the right crack are intere…
Oofdah routes. Several variations exist on the left or right side including right up the arete.
[Hide Photo] Oofdah routes. Several variations exist on the left or right side including right up the arete.
Ladyfingers, Power of a Good Haircut, Disinclination, and Obduracy. IMO, to keep Obduracy at 5.6, stay near right side of wall. Angling up and left is mostly 5.6 except for one move that I think is 5.7 or 8.
[Hide Photo] Ladyfingers, Power of a Good Haircut, Disinclination, and Obduracy. IMO, to keep Obduracy at 5.6, stay near right side of wall. Angling up and left is mostly 5.6 except for one move that I think is…
Great Mass in C Minor climbs a pretty obvious crack up to the first ledge, then there seems to be several ways to attack the middle ledges/cracks. The red line is the way I climbed it, staying more right on outside corners than on the inside corners.
[Hide Photo] Great Mass in C Minor climbs a pretty obvious crack up to the first ledge, then there seems to be several ways to attack the middle ledges/cracks. The red line is the way I climbed it, staying more…
Green Slab and A Cheval
[Hide Photo] Green Slab and A Cheval
B-Minor Mass. 
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The left face is Swartling's #13. The only place I've seen the name "Another Pretty Face" is on the description of a Tom Anderson-Brown picture here in MP.
[Hide Photo] B-Minor Mass. The left face is Swartling's #13. The only place I've seen the name "Another Pretty Face" is on the description of a Tom Anderson-Brown picture here in MP.
In the Heat of the Sun - viewed from the base of the south tower.
[Hide Photo] In the Heat of the Sun - viewed from the base of the south tower.
Flotsam and Jetsam to Ladyfingers. 
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<br>
Rather than using Obduracy, you can get to the ledge where these climbs start using a couple different access routes, one of which could be a variation to the start of Rainman since it leads right up to it.
[Hide Photo] Flotsam and Jetsam to Ladyfingers. Rather than using Obduracy, you can get to the ledge where these climbs start using a couple different access routes, one of which could be a variation to the…