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4. Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass
Wisconsin
> Baraboo Range
> Devil's Lake
> E Bluff 05 - Potholes…
Description
The Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass is located near the top of the Potholes trail to the west of Red Rocks. The formation contains a good range of climbs with good exposure and length. The formation includes an 80 foot tower (South Tower) and two distinct levels, offering good opportunity to practice multi-pitch leads. The Minor Mass is rarely crowded, in part because it is less easily accessed than other popular areas. Don't let the lack of crowds fool you. The quality of the climbs on this formation is equal to those found at the East Rampart or other popular spots.
Getting There
To access the Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass park at the South Shore parking area and take the paved path north across the railroad tracks. At the junction of the Balanced Rock Trail and the Grottos Trail turn right and take the Grottos Trail. Walk along the base of the talus slope for about ten minutes until you see the Potholes Trail heading left up the bluff. Take the Potholes Trail up the bluff and go through the Red Rocks formation. Looking left you will see the Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass formation (it is nearer to the Potholes Trail and sits slightly higher up than the Doorway Rocks - Major Mass). About 50 yards above the Red Rocks formation cut across the slope for about 100 feet until you reach the cliff of the Minor Mass. If you can locate the South Tower (the lowest reaching portion of the formation) you can use it to find your bearings.
[Hide Photo] Go 25' SE from the top of Devil's Doorway Trail (east end) to see the view in the upper left frame. Scramble 15' down from here to a ledge where the other 2 views can be seen. Access to A Cheval an…
[Hide Photo] The Green Ledges wall west of the south tower.
[Hide Photo] The Doorway Rocks seen from 3/4 up the Potholes Trail.
[Hide Photo] Saturday Forever. Slightly separated from and right of the other east-of-the-saddle climbs. The standard finish is up the center of the top face, but up the left arete or the right crack are intere…
[Hide Photo] Oofdah routes. Several variations exist on the left or right side including right up the arete.
[Hide Photo] Ladyfingers, Power of a Good Haircut, Disinclination, and Obduracy. IMO, to keep Obduracy at 5.6, stay near right side of wall. Angling up and left is mostly 5.6 except for one move that I think is…
[Hide Photo] Great Mass in C Minor climbs a pretty obvious crack up to the first ledge, then there seems to be several ways to attack the middle ledges/cracks. The red line is the way I climbed it, staying more…
[Hide Photo] B-Minor Mass. The left face is Swartling's #13. The only place I've seen the name "Another Pretty Face" is on the description of a Tom Anderson-Brown picture here in MP.
[Hide Photo] In the Heat of the Sun - viewed from the base of the south tower.
[Hide Photo] Flotsam and Jetsam to Ladyfingers. Rather than using Obduracy, you can get to the ledge where these climbs start using a couple different access routes, one of which could be a variation to the…