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Routes in 6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall

12 5.9 dihedral T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
13 5.4 Corner T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
22 5.8 face climb T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
6.63 Smoots T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
AAHRG T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Basswood Chimney T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Beer and Booty T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Bifurcation T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Der Glotz TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Der Glotzenlinks T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
False Dilemma T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fear and Trembling TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grandma's Staircase TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Indigo Billy T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Invitation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Invitation Direct T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Law and Gospel T,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Moondust T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Morning After T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Mr. Neutron TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
New Box T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Night Before TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
R.S.V.P. T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Pulpit T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Spring Fever TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Sunken Pillar T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Switch Cover Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Unnamed Short route T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Watermarks T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Watermarks Direct T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Watermarks Left Side TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elevation: 1,178 ft
GPS: 43.414, -89.725 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 11,180 total, 58/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Feb 24, 2002
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

Description

The Balanced Rock Wall is one of the most popular climbing spots at Devil's Lake, and it's also a good place to go to impress day hikers since the Balanced Rock Trail passes along the base of the wall. The Balanced Rock Wall is a 40 foot wall containing the classic climb Watermarks (5.8), along with a handful of other moderate and enjoyable climbs. Access is fairly easy and straight forward, and the quality of the climbs is high. The only downside to the formation is the likelihood that you'll encounter a lot of people throughout the day. If you're looking to show off, this is the place for you. If you're looking for solitude, steer clear.

Getting There

To gain access to the Balanced Rock Wall hike up the Balanced Rock trail about halfway up the bluff. Twenty minutes of rock steps (10 if you're fast) and you will come upon this fine piece of rock. You really will have a hard time getting lost when looking for the Balanced Rock Wall.

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Classic Climbing Routes at 0 - Balanced Rock Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
New Box
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sunken Pillar
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Red Pulpit
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Watermarks
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Der Glotz
TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Watermarks Direct
Trad, TR
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Beer and Booty
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Morning After
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Moondust
Trad
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Law and Gospel
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
New Box 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
Sunken Pillar 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
Red Pulpit 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Watermarks 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Der Glotz 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
Watermarks Direct 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Beer and Booty 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Morning After 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad
Moondust 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Law and Gospel 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, TR
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
Tom Mulholland
#1 Cheese Producing State!
Tom Mulholland   #1 Cheese Producing State!
Do Moondust too! A steeper, shorter version of Sometime Direct. One of the better protected 5.11s in the park. Aug 17, 2011
This area can be a total mess with hikers, tourists, scouts, and climbers mixed up in a blender. Get their really early to avoid the sun and then split for elsewhere. The climbs are getting pretty beat too with many layers of rubber and chalk.

Sunken Pillar, Watermarks, Morning After and New Box are the climbs to do. Aug 11, 2011

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