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7.2.1 - Birthday Rocks

Wisconsin > Devil's Lake > E Bluff 07 - Railroad…

Description

The Birthday Rocks area contains many fine climbs, starting about 50 feet up from the railroad tracks directly above the electric fence. The northwest end of the wall contains shorter climbs, while the southeast end terminates at a tall tower. Birthday Crack (5.7) is the classic climb of this formation, and there are a half-dozen or so other moderate climbs to keep you busy. The Birthday Rocks are also home to two long and difficult climbs, the Great White Hope (5.11a) and the Caesarian West Face (5.12b).

Getting There

To get to the Birthday Rocks, walk north along the railroad tracks from the South Shore parking lot until you see the long electric fence on the east (bluff) side of the tracks. You will find the Birthday Rocks directly above this fence about 50 feet from the tracks. Top-rope access can be gained by skirting south and east around the Caesarian Tower at the southeast end of the wall.

Routes from Left to Right

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 3
Chester's Chimney
Trad, TR
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
 5
Horner's Corner
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 2
Flux Capacitor Crack
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 7
Flying Delorean
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 2
Unknown
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 2
Unknown2
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 2
Bowing to the Undercling
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 25
The Left Twin
Trad, TR
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
 1
Doublemint
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 32
The Right Twin
Trad, TR
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 1
The Phallacy of Symbolism
TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 21
Great White Hope
Trad, TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 95
Birthday Crack
Trad, TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 8
Mitzvah
Trad, TR
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 45
Birthday Chimney
Trad, TR
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 9
Caesarian West Face
TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 17
Caesarian Tower
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Birthday Boulder
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Chester's Chimney
 3
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
Horner's Corner
 5
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 Trad, TR
Flux Capacitor Crack
 2
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Flying Delorean
 7
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Unknown
 2
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
Unknown2
 2
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Bowing to the Undercling
 2
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, TR
The Left Twin
 25
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Doublemint
 1
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R Trad, TR
The Right Twin
 32
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
The Phallacy of Symbolism
 1
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a TR
Great White Hope
 21
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, TR
Birthday Crack
 95
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Mitzvah
 8
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Birthday Chimney
 45
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
Caesarian West Face
 9
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b TR
Caesarian Tower
 17
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Birthday Boulder
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

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Birthday Rocks area as seen from the railroad tracks
[Hide Photo] Birthday Rocks area as seen from the railroad tracks

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] I climbed Horner's Corner at Birthday Rocks today. This is one of the most exposed routes I have been on at the Lake. Rated at a 5.4 is a bit low for the top portion I thought. It should be listed as a classic as far as I am concerned. Devils lake classics usually have old pitons and this one does up at the exposed top move(s). Oct 23, 2011