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Routes in Surprise Rock

Awe-rete, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Called on Account of Grain TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dirty Surprise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eye of Horus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flittering Fingers TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Grainy Day, Dream Away TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Trembling Toes S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Description

Just before reaching the Freak Brothers Dome you'll pass by this wonderfully tall sun-soaked, west-facing rock. It is host to a very nice bolted sport route and a fine crack climb as well. It is clear that this face has not seen tremendous activity, and because of that there are some crumbly bits of rock one must be cautious of. Trembling Toes (5.9) is a 120' bolted route with 9 bolts to a chain anchor. To the right of this, despite the name, is the enjoyable crack of Dirty Surprise (5.9). The rap anchor above Trembling Toes can be used for both routes as a decent. An easy and enjoyable stop while sifting along the Wonderland Valley Trail!

Getting There

Simply park at the Uncle Willie's Health Food Store lot and hike in along the Wonderland Valley Trail until it opens up with the Astro Domes to the west, and Surprise rock will be directly to the east of the valley, with the obvious Freak Brothers Dome just past it along the trail.

7 Total Climbs

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Murf  
Good enough route, odd line at the top. Seems like the FA struggled to make it difficult at the top. Rather than follow the path of least resistence ( either through the iffy rock, or left and continue left on the shoulder ), they tended left and then split the difference. Feb 7, 2005

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