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Lower Dodge City Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Lower Dodge City

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	Frontier Justice T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Hangman Jury S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

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Elevation:	3,396 ft	1,035 m
GPS:	34.0807, -116.14167 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	3,757 total · 14/month
Shared By:	C Miller on Jan 31, 2005
Admins:	Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.

The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

Lower Dodge city is the obvious collection of north-facing faces due south of the Corral Wall. Directly west of it is the Ponderosa Wall and Black Tower, while to the west is Upper Dodge City via a rugged approach. Shady most of the day with nice gray rock and some high quality routes. There are two sport climbs climbs here which are of high enough quality to warrant a visit. Hangman Jury (5.11b) ascends a pyramid of rock with thin moves down low to a fun finish on large holds, while Frontier Justice (5.11c) climbs a short hand crack to a wild-looking roof and finishes with polished slab moves.

Despite the quality routes these routes seldom see traffic. Best climbed when temperatures permit climbing in the shade.

Getting There

Approach by first hiking to the Corral Wall, and then scrambling south up through boulders to reach the obvious north-facing formation. Plan on 30 minutes to approach the base of the formation.

While possible to approach from the south via the upper reaches of Rattlesnake Canyon, this approach can only be recommended if already in that vicinity. Plan on lots of boulder-hopping and slow going.