PRINT: Rock Climbing in Slatanic Area, Joshua Tree National Park

Slatanic Area

California > Joshua Tree NP > Indian Cove > Rattlesnake Canyon > Valley of Kings

Access Issue: Temporary Closure in effect from April 3 to June 15, 2024 Details

Temporary Closure for Nesting Raptors
Date Posted: 4/4/2024
Due to the presence of nesting raptors, the following rock climbing areas are temporarily closed: Slatanic Area, Rattlesnake Buttress, Margaret Thatcher Spire, The Stepping Stones, The Bulkhead, The Dunce Cap, and Commissioner’s Buttress.

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Seasonal raptor closure for entire Slatanic Area from 2/19/2014 to 6/15/2014.

Description

The featured attraction in this area is a north facing rectangular granite monolith about 100 feet high. The granite is as solid and smooth as you will find in Josh. In fact it bears a resemblance to slate! Witch Hunt (5.10b) and South of Heaven (5.12d) are bolted climbs that ascend the lefthand and righthand aretes respectively. Both are classics. Devil's Advocate (5.11a) begins in an offwidth just left of Witch Hunt and ends in a discontinuous horizontal seam (3 out of 5 stars).

Getting There

The easiest approach to this area is to follow the directions to Valley of the Kings. From the Helmet, walk east for 1/2 mile across the valley floor to the gully that is just north of the Corrugated Wall. The Slatanic Area is "around the corner" from The Corrugated Wall and near the top of the gully.

Routes from Left to Right

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 2 ● Devil's Advocate Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 11 ● Witch Hunt Trad
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b 5 ● South of Heaven Sport

● Devil's Advocate

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad

● Witch Hunt

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad

● South of Heaven

5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Mike Lechlinski on South of Heaven. Photo credit M. Gingery

Photo by H. Harris, 05/04/03

Approach from backside. Go through notch right of angular perched boulder.

Slatanic Area approach from the backside.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Josh Janes

The bolted anchor atop the formation was replaced courtesy of the ASCA with 1/2" stainless hardware in 2013.

If you use and appreciate updated bolts in J Tree, consider a donation to the ASCA at safeclimbing.org. Apr 7, 2013