PRINT: Rock Climbing in Fraggle Rock, Joshua Tree National Park

Fraggle Rock

California > Joshua Tree NP > Queen Valley Area > Desert Queen Mine

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

Superb sport and trad climbs are found on this formation that sits high on a ridge on the eastern edge of the Desert Queen Mine area. Most of the climbs are west or north facing and remain shaded during the morning / early afternoon.

Excellent sport climbs include I Have The Touch (5.12b) and Sensory Deprivation (5.12b).

Petrodynamics (5.10d) and Tiers For Fears (5.10d R) are among the best trad climbs.

Getting There

One approach to this area that doesn't involve driving on dirt roads is to park at the Split Rocks area and take the developed trail that goes to the Morongo Man Cliffs. The trail continues to the top of the ridge and then continues north. You will pass old mining tunnels and tailings before reaching a miner's cabin at the base of Fraggle Rock.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 1 ● The Still Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 2 ● Poppin' and Breakin' Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 7 ● Petrodynamics (aka Gigantor) Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R 7 ● Tiers for Fears Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 3 ● Wuthering Heights Trad
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a 1 ● Moor or Less Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 6 ● Stairway to Kevin Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 2 ● Prozac Crack Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 3 ● Scattered Remains Trad
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b 2 ● Cosmic Trigger Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 4 ● I Have The Touch Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 1 ● Jolly Roger Sport