All Locations > California > Joshua Tree NP > Queen Valley Area > Desert Queen Mine

Fraggle Rock Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Fraggle Rock

L › R R › L A › Z

	Cosmic Trigger S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	I Have The Touch S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Jolly Roger S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Moor or Less T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	Petrodynamics (aka Gigantor) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Poppin' and Breakin' T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Prozac Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Scattered Remains T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Stairway to Kevin S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Still, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Tiers for Fears T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	Wuthering Heights T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	4,400 ft	1,341 m
GPS:	34.02244, -116.06147 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	11,800 total · 41/month
Shared By:	Vernon Stiefel on Apr 14, 2003 · Updates
Admins:	Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.

The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

Superb sport and trad climbs are found on this formation that sits high on a ridge on the eastern edge of the Desert Queen Mine area. Most of the climbs are west or north facing and remain shaded during the morning / early afternoon.

Excellent sport climbs include I Have The Touch (5.12b) and Sensory Deprivation (5.12b).

Petrodynamics (5.10d) and Tiers For Fears (5.10d R) are among the best trad climbs.

Getting There

One approach to this area that doesn't involve driving on dirt roads is to park at the Split Rocks area and take the developed trail that goes to the Morongo Man Cliffs. The trail continues to the top of the ridge and then continues north. You will pass old mining tunnels and tailings before reaching a miner's cabin at the base of Fraggle Rock.

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Fraggle Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R 7 ● Tiers for Fears Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 9 ● Petrodynamics (aka Gigantor) Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 4 ● I Have The Touch Sport