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Routes in Wonder Bluffs

Bluewind T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Conniption T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dry Rain T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gomer Pile T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gypsy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hopelessly Trapped in the Negro Vortex T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pencil Neck Geek T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rings Around Your Danus T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slam Dunk T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tom Plumb T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Elevation: 3,448 ft
GPS: 34.089, -116.158 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 3,102 total, 17/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 10, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes


The Wonder Bluffs is a less visited crag with a collection of variable quality cracks from 5.7-5.10b and some nice view of the surrounding area. Easterly-facing so plan on morning sun and afternoon shade.

Getting There

Start your approach from the vicinity of King Otto's Castle; there is some parking nearby. Cross the road and skirt Condor Rock on the right (west end) aiming for a boulder filled gully that leads to the base of the east-facing wall.

A little more effort is needed to reach this wall but the views from the base and lack of crowds make up for it. Plan on roughly 20-30 minutes for the approach.

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Wonder Bluffs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tom Plumb
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hopelessly Trapped in the Negro Vortex
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Tom Plumb 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Hopelessly Trapped in the N… 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Conniption 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Wonder Bluffs »

Weather Averages

Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season
There is a bolted rappel station located in a waterchute to the right of "Bluewind" as of 01/2012. This is approximately at the top of the line "Negro Vortex". Makes for a quick and easy descent for all routes left of "Pencil Neck Geek".

This is a wonderful crag for the 5.10 crack climber. Jan 3, 2012
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
This is a great crag with many enjoyable and quality routes. This north facing crag receives full shade with little traffic making this a nice spot to head out with a partner or a circus of friends. The approach is straight forward as you hike up the boulder field approaching the base.

Now that we know it's fine lines, in the shade and lacks traffic here comes the bad anchors make this crag a bit of a hassle. Aside from Pencil Neck Geek which has pseudo fixed anchors (slung bollard with rings) the rest of the crag is devoid of an easy decent. The scramble is time consuming and requires J-Tree descent finding skills. Exit climbers right wearing your tight crack shoes under a chimney, past chockstones, down a gully, through some catclaw to the formation floor then head back up through more boulders to the base.

Thinking of making a day of it? Consider bringing an extra rope and gear to construct a fixed rap line. At the end of the day, draw the short straw for who needs to break it down and hump it back down to the base. Nov 28, 2011

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