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Jerry's Quarry and Lost Pencil Areas

California > Joshua Tree NP > Queen Valley Area > Geology Tour Rd
Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

Contains a mix of fine climbs, near to the Geology Tour Road. Easy to find using Randy Vogel's guidebook. One route on Jerry's Quarry stands out as perhaps the best pure finger-crack in America. Equinox is an outstanding route, as it appears to be the only "natural" weakness up a 90 foot tall boulder. This area is quite remote and does not see much traffic so expect a total absence of engine noise and gawking tourists.

Getting There

Take geology tour road south for about 3.7 miles to pullout #5. This is clearly marked with a brown plastic post, and is on the right-hand (west) side of the road. Beyond pullout #5, the road deteriorates significantly, becoming passable only in 4WD vehicle.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Lost Pencil.<br>
Photo by Blitzo.
[Hide Photo] Lost Pencil. Photo by Blitzo.
Looking west to the Lost Pencil, Joshua Tree NP
[Hide Photo] Looking west to the Lost Pencil, Joshua Tree NP
Jerry's Quarry
[Hide Photo] Jerry's Quarry
Jerry's Quarry.<br>
Photo by Blitzo.
[Hide Photo] Jerry's Quarry. Photo by Blitzo.
Jerry's Quarry area.<br>
Photo by Blitzo.
[Hide Photo] Jerry's Quarry area. Photo by Blitzo.
Lost Pencil area. Galapagos in background.<br>
Photo by Blitzo.
[Hide Photo] Lost Pencil area. Galapagos in background. Photo by Blitzo.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Ahhh! The Lost Pencil.My girlfriend and I Hiked all the way out to it, did the approach pitch, and then bailed. The crux was the first fifteen feet protected by one bolt and involved bold manteling above the bolt. I couldn't summon the nads so we rapped of the bail biner that was already there. I was bummed. This is like a "Headstone" but in the middle of nowhere, or so it seems. Apparently there is a new route called No. 2 on the left arete. I couldn't get off the ground. What a fuckin' day. Aug 15, 2004
[Hide Comment] The left route on the Lost Pencil is a good route, 5.11 or so. Well bolted and fun edging, if thats whats fun? it is to me... Oct 29, 2004
[Hide Comment] By the "left route" you mean the one with the new bolts? That thing felt harder than 11b to me. Oct 31, 2004