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Horse Creek Rock Climbing
Climbing Area Map
This is our best guess at this area's location.
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Routes in Horse Creek
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Mickey Mantle S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Reckon So S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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| GPS: | 38.477, -109.381 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 7,013 total · 39/month |
| Shared By: | richard magill on Apr 28, 2004 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Description
This area holds a high concentration of shorter routes - genuinely excellent in most respects! There are about 3 dozen routes on the shady side of the canyon that can be accessed here.
At least a dozen more routes exist over on the sunny side, but these are a bit more spread out and they have sort of an adventure feel to them - long, often difficult, and with no published information. Bring a 70 M rope if you want to climb on the sunny side, and tie a knot in the end of the rope!
In general, a little bit of supplemental gear is always a good idea on either side of the canyon - small cams are the best.Expect some run out lines.
At least a dozen more routes exist over on the sunny side, but these are a bit more spread out and they have sort of an adventure feel to them - long, often difficult, and with no published information. Bring a 70 M rope if you want to climb on the sunny side, and tie a knot in the end of the rope!
In general, a little bit of supplemental gear is always a good idea on either side of the canyon - small cams are the best.Expect some run out lines.
Getting There
UPDATE; Horse Creek is now accessed via a trail that leads into the "heart" of Mill Creek. Park at the very obvious parking lot near the bathroom in the same spot the road bends along the canyon - the loop road goes almost due north as it approaches Mill Creek and then takes almost a 90 degree bend back to the east (before it gets to the bridge).
The rope ladder is now gone and the trail follows the obvious, trail, above the old ladder and continues along upper part of canyon until trail leads to newly made steps down into Mill Creek. Alternatively you can continue along upper trail until you come into the original trail that takes you to the "dog trail" with rope for assistance down some ledges.
At the base of the "OLD & GONE" ladder you immediately access a highly developed buttress. The first lines encountered are a couple of excellent 12a/b routes on slightly overhanging stone. The left line has a killer all points off dyno to get you going!
Almost all of the cragging is west of this buttress - just follow the trail down canyon and pick your poison. When you encounter the creek you can cross over and find a nice warm-up 5.9 and up the trail to the right are some more varied climbs from 5.10-5.13(14?) Also, in the canyon itself are some older lines, run-out and not a lot of info on.
As an alternate approach, if you are already at the Wicked Crag, there is a trail along the canyon floor all the way to Horse Creek.
The rope ladder is now gone and the trail follows the obvious, trail, above the old ladder and continues along upper part of canyon until trail leads to newly made steps down into Mill Creek. Alternatively you can continue along upper trail until you come into the original trail that takes you to the "dog trail" with rope for assistance down some ledges.
At the base of the "OLD & GONE" ladder you immediately access a highly developed buttress. The first lines encountered are a couple of excellent 12a/b routes on slightly overhanging stone. The left line has a killer all points off dyno to get you going!
Almost all of the cragging is west of this buttress - just follow the trail down canyon and pick your poison. When you encounter the creek you can cross over and find a nice warm-up 5.9 and up the trail to the right are some more varied climbs from 5.10-5.13(14?) Also, in the canyon itself are some older lines, run-out and not a lot of info on.
As an alternate approach, if you are already at the Wicked Crag, there is a trail along the canyon floor all the way to Horse Creek.
Classic Climbing Routes at Horse Creek
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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