Elevation: 5,772 ft
GPS: 38.101, -109.566 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 36,999 total · 197/month
Shared By: William McGehee on Oct 6, 2003
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: See main page for raptor info. Details

Description

BrokenTooth is the Buttress/Wall that bisects the "canyon" JUST north of Catwall. Climbs here are splitter and sustained, ranging from 5.10-5.12+. One of the more notable features of the wall is a HUGE leaning block on the westernmost point of the wall. This also includes a natural cave/hall for those seeking shelter from the rain. The more popular cracks are thin, so bring lots of .25-2" cams.

Getting There

Drive a little over 8 miles past Newspaper Rock on UT 211. Pass the intersection of 211 ands UT 104 by approximately 1.5 miles. Look carefully for a wire gate on the East side of the road that is fastened by a pair of hooks on a chain (typically easier to look for dirt on 211 from the camp-road). 2WD vehicles with clearance should be adequate, but don't forget to SHUT THE GATE!!! Drive less than a mile.

Park in the large dirt area adjacent to some VERY large rocks. The largest makes a good stargazing/cooking/sleeping spot incidentally. Take the obvious dirt trail on the East side of the dirt area. This takes you directly to the base of BrokenTooth Wall and immediately next to the Rain-Cave.

31 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: TEMP RAPTOR AVOIDANCE AREA SEE MAIN PAGE Broken Tooth Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at TEMP RAPTOR AVOIDANCE AREA SEE MAIN PAGE Broken Tooth

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 49
Dental Floss Tycoon
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 58
Blue Sky Mining
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 40
Midnight Oil
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 72
The Incisor
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 161
unnamed classic hand crack aka G…
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 18
Tooth Fairy
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 232
Rock Lobster
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 94
Polygrip
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 34
Heat Searcher
Trad 2 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 18
Dentist Chair
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 23
Mondo
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 69
Broken Tooth
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 15
Rhythm Method
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 63
Inflictor
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 35
Unbelievable
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Dental Floss Tycoon
 49
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Blue Sky Mining
 58
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Midnight Oil
 40
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
The Incisor
 72
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
unnamed classic hand crack…
 161
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Tooth Fairy
 18
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Rock Lobster
 232
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Polygrip
 94
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Heat Searcher
 34
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
Dentist Chair
 18
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Mondo
 23
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Broken Tooth
 69
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Rhythm Method
 15
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Inflictor
 63
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Unbelievable
 35
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in TEMP RAPTOR AVOIDANCE AREA SEE MAIN PAGE Broken Tooth »

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Photos

Does anyone know what the long steep zig zaging splitter not far (like 30') to the right of Dental Floss Tycon is? It's on the pillar, west facing and looks sweet. And it has an anchor... Jun 28, 2015
Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Shrooms with Heffner? Jun 29, 2015
No, but good guess. Aug 3, 2015
Darbley Sterway   Aspen
Anybody know what time this cliff gets sun/shade this time of year? Sep 17, 2018
Nate Sydnor   Moab
From Jason Byrd. BLM Outdoor Recreation Planner:

Some updated information on spring/summer 2019 raptor nesting and climbing avoidance areas for IC:

"We just issued a news release and map of the active rapture nesting areas in the Indian Creek Corridor. Here is the web address to the News Release (blm.gov/press-release/annou…). The ?map? is attached to the news release the link is on the right hand side.

Background Information: compliance not to climb in these areas is voluntary and and strongly encouraged, as human disturbance can affect nesting success, however the routes are not legally closed. This requires additional environmental reviews and public notification through the Federal Register, which takes some time. Because of this, we are referring to these routes as "climbing avoidance areas" rather than closures. The entire climbing community is generally very supportive and helpful in these raptor protection efforts, and we hope these voluntary efforts will help keep these locations open outside of the nesting season for your enjoyment.

Please be aware of climbing routes that have nesting raptors. This News Release requests climbers' cooperation in protecting eagles, peregrine falcons, and other migratory birds who use the Indian Creek area to raise their young. Between March 1st and August 31st each year, the BLM asks climbers to avoid climbing these walls until they have been cleared by agency biologists: The Wall, Far Side, Second Meat Wall, Disappointment Cliff, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. Two of these walls are on partially or wholly on lands managed by SITLA, who is working cooperatively with BLM to protect raptors. The BLM and SITLA will survey walls and generally in May can release any routes that don't have active nests. The walls with active nests should be avoided until the young have fledged. Eagles and falcons mate for life and return to the same nest sites year after year to raise their young, your cooperation is vital to their survival. Here is a link to the news release and map of the affected areas (add link here). Signs will also be posted at the main trailheads.

Please let me know if you have any questions- Thanks!

Jason Byrd
BLM Outdoor Recreation Planner
Monticello, UT 84535
435-587-1534
jbyrd@blm.gov Feb 21, 2019