PRINT: Rock Climbing in Texas Tower, Southeast Utah

Texas Tower

Utah > Southeast Utah > Blanding > Texas Canyon

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Description

Texas Tower is a monstrous tower far from any paved road. It has two known routes - a Tim Toula offwidth horror show and a new route by Paul Ross.

Getting There

From Blanding drive 4 miles south to Rt95, and then about 10 miles to Texas Flat Road. Then about 2.5 miles the to canyon on the left(Arch Canyon). 4x4 road for 10 miles to the end of the road and the junction of Texas Canyon, a good camp site. The tower is 2 mile walk from here. Alternative approach is from canyon rim...

Routes from Left to Right

5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C2 7 ● East Face of Texas Tower Trad, Aid 7 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a 3 ● South Face Trad

● East Face of Texas Tower

5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C2 Trad, Aid 7 pitches

● South Face

5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

On the summit after the first Ascent of the East Face. 2002

Texas Tower. Ross/Pheasent East Face Route.

The Ross/Pheasant route. The East Face.Grade IV 7 pitches.5.10 C2 Photo A.Ross

Texas Tower showing the East Face

Texas Tower from the base of Lone Star.

Texas Tower

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM

The available descent info on Texas Tower is a bit vague, or the descent is not obvious. Perhaps that adds to the experience.

When Josh Smith and I climbed this in 4/09, we missed the 2nd rap station, left our own gear somewhere on the east face, but 1 rap later eventually joined up with the bolted anchors of the East Face route.

I thought maybe we were just chumps, but it looks like we weren't the only ones to get confused on the rappels, as I saw Kalous and Thesenga's trip report: thecleanestline.com/2012/03…
To their credit, they were in the dark and it was snowy. We have no similar excuses. Mar 15, 2012