PRINT: Rock Climbing in Argon Tower, Southeast Utah

Argon Tower

Utah > Southeast Utah > Arches NP

Access Issue: Closures and Restrictions Details

Check Raptor closure status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/…

Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions mountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Description

A fine looking 250' tower on the west side of the north end of Courthouse Wash. Argon is a couple hundred yards south of the Three Gossips. Routes face north and west.

This tower looks better than it climbs. The rock is worse than that of the Gossips -- sandy and soft. A trigger broke on a unit after we placed it. We were able to remove the piece by cutting away the surrounding rock with a penknife.

Getting There

Start at the parking lot at the north end of the Courthouse Wash (Broadway) trail. Take the trail for a few minutes until abeam Argon. Follow intermittent climbers' trails, countouring around the north end of the tower, bypassing the bottom part of the tower and ending up at a bench on the west side of the tower. Ten to fifteen minutes from the parking lot.

Routes from Left to Right

5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 2 ● North Northeast Trad 5 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 16 ● West Face Trad 3 pitches

● North Northeast

5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 5 pitches

● West Face

5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 3 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Argon Tower on the left with the Tower of Babel in the background.

Think good thoughts. Your only protection on the last pitch.

There is an interesting move on the approach. <br>
<br>
Steady Ian..... Steady... keep those feet quiet... do you want a spot?..... or the photo of you making the move?

There is an interesting move on the approach. Steady Ian..... Steady... keep those feet quiet... do you want a spot?..... or the photo of you making the move?

Paul Ross and Jimmy Dunn on the summit about 2001

On pitch 2

Helen Dunn

Looking down pitch 2

Full Team 2001 Mr and Mrs Dunn .. Chamonix Guide .. Paul Ross

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

KalebN

really soft had a perfectly placed yellow alien almost skid right out of the crack on pitch 3 when I weighted it

Jan 8, 2012

MTN MIA
Vail

Super fun, super sandy, super chossy, super scary!!! A true entrada sandstone tower.

Warning!!!!!! the top pitch is super X-rated. Someone needs to replace the old star driven bolt that is hanging out 3/4 of an inch (and it is the only pro on the pitch). A fall on this uber sandy friction slab would have deadly consequences. The summit could use one more bolt as well. There is one good one right now and three totally pulled out star driven old manky bolts. Apr 29, 2012