Description

There are several concentrations of routes on walls just off the road and up the sidecanyons including the Sex Wall and Pine Canyon Wall. Most of the routes require you to find a break in the Chinle to access the climbs.

Getting There

Lower Buckhorn Wash routes extend north from the San Rafael River into the Buckhorn Wash up to a large camping area on the righthand side of the road. The campsites are at the base of a narrow wash, and there are several climbs on the buttress immediately past the wash with slings at the 100' mark that provide a good landmark. This camping area is around three miles from the bridge over the San Rafael.

22 Total Climbs

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Location: Lower Buckhorn Wash Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Lower Buckhorn Wash

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
Flapjack Tower
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1
 19
Haagenschlong
Aid 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A1+
 4
Outhouse Tower - Mallory's Mount…
Aid 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
 36
James Tower AKA The Lightblub
Trad, Aid 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 10
Jamison Engineering
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 4
Whoa Dude!
Trad 3 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 19
Short Stack
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 5
Wisdom Tooth - Cryptogramic Forest
Trad 2 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 3
Deprivation 29
Trad 5 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 4
Crossroads / Disconnect / Come A…
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Soup Kitchen
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Flapjack Tower Misc
 6
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Haagenschlong Misc
 19
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1 Aid 3 pitches
Outhouse Tower - Mallory's… Misc
 4
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A1+ Aid 2 pitches
James Tower AKA The Lightblub Misc
 36
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1 Trad, Aid 3 pitches
Jamison Engineering Misc
 10
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Whoa Dude! Misc
 4
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 3 pitches
Short Stack Misc
 19
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Wisdom Tooth - Cryptogramic… Misc
 5
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 2 pitches
Deprivation 29 Misc
 3
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 5 pitches
Crossroads / Disconnect / C… Misc
 4
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Soup Kitchen Misc
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Lower Buckhorn Wash »

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Photos

Brian Milhaupt
Golden, CO
Brian Milhaupt   Golden, CO
Correction: 2.3 miles from the bridge Dec 17, 2002