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The Cirque of the Climbables
Utah
> Southeast Utah
> Kane Springs Canyon
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
The Tombstones of Kane Springs Canyon are what trad and aid climbers dream about. The rock is high quality Navajo sandstone with a little sand at the base but from the 20 foot mark to the 365 foot mark the rock is clean and solid. The routes are mainly mixed trad and aid and hold some of the best free climbing piches in the desert. The descent routes are all good rap lines and the rock is great in the winter.Watch out for base jumpers, if they don't call the jump it sounds like a huge rockfall!!
Getting There
You can't miss the Tombstones when driving into Kane Springs Canyon. The three huge stones are 50 yards off the road to your left, 1/2 mile after you cross the cattle guard at the mouth of the canyon. Park in the pulloff on the left under the Middle Tombstone. Approach via the climbers trail at the pullout. Time to the rock is about 3 minutes.