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The Cirque of the Climbables

Utah > Southeast Utah > Kane Springs Canyon
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description

The Tombstones of Kane Springs Canyon are what trad and aid climbers dream about. The rock is high quality Navajo sandstone with a little sand at the base but from the 20 foot mark to the 365 foot mark the rock is clean and solid. The routes are mainly mixed trad and aid and hold some of the best free climbing piches in the desert. The descent routes are all good rap lines and the rock is great in the winter.Watch out for base jumpers, if they don't call the jump it sounds like a huge rockfall!!

Getting There

You can't miss the Tombstones when driving into Kane Springs Canyon. The three huge stones are 50 yards off the road to your left, 1/2 mile after you cross the cattle guard at the mouth of the canyon. Park in the pulloff on the left under the Middle Tombstone. Approach via the climbers trail at the pullout. Time to the rock is about 3 minutes.

Routes from Left to Right

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A2
 0
I Dream of Jeannie
Trad, Aid 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
 4
Deep Voodoo
Trad, Aid 4 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 45
Corner Route
Trad 5 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C2
 21
Playing Hooky
Aid 4 pitches
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
 1
Epitaph
Trad 3 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
 1
For Desert Rats Only
Trad 5 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
I Dream of Jeannie
 0
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A2 Trad, Aid 3 pitches
Deep Voodoo
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2 Trad, Aid 4 pitches
Corner Route
 45
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad 5 pitches
Playing Hooky
 21
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C2 Aid 4 pitches
Epitaph
 1
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c Trad 3 pitches
For Desert Rats Only
 1
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R Trad 5 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

the moment of truth...
[Hide Photo] the moment of truth...
The Tombstones at sunset.
[Hide Photo] The Tombstones at sunset.
Flying Hooky 5.10d C2 :)<br>
<br>
Hauled our loads up and jumped off, in proper style.<br>
<br>
[Hide Photo] Flying Hooky 5.10d C2 :) Hauled our loads up and jumped off, in proper style.
Racking up for the Tompstone
[Hide Photo] Racking up for the Tompstone
just the Tomb Stones
[Hide Photo] just the Tomb Stones