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Routes in Blue Gramma Cliff

Blue Gramma T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dawn of an Age T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Desert Siren (Tower) T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Event Horizon, The T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c C1
Formerly Aided T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hayley's Heyday T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Left of 5.10 Flake T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Moon Goddess Revenge T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c X
Orion's Bow T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Petrelli Motors T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Price of Evil, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Unknown far left T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown far left - II T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed (far right side - big hands to OW bulge) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 10+ (steep thin hands dihedral to pod) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unnamed 11 (shares BG anchor) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unnamed 5.10 Flake T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 9+ (big hands dihedral) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unnamed II (fingers through fists) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Blue Gramma is more or less the first major cliff (for climbing) in Indian Creek. It doesn't see as much traffic as the "big name" cliffs, but many of the routes are only 50 feet high or so and there are a great many worthwhile 5.9 and 5.10 routes, most of them "unnamed". This was the first wall I visited on my first trip to Indian Creek and it was a perfect intro. In fact the first route I ever did at Indian Creek, an unnamed 5.9+, is still to my mind one of the best I've done. You don't need 8 of every friend size here!

Getting There

Since it receives less traffic, this crag is a bit harder to find. It's a mile or so before you get to Supercrack buttress, at a good pull-out on the right. Look for a series of clean but comparatively short dihedrals near to the road, maybe 2-3 miles after Newspaper Rock. The approach is quite short as there isn't much of a talus slope.

19 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Blue Gramma Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 195
Unnamed 9+ (big hands dihedral)
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 130
Petrelli Motors
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 104
Dawn of an Age
Trad, TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 79
Unnamed II (fingers through fists)
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 43
Hayley's Heyday
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 33
Unnamed 5.10 Flake
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
 6
Orion's Bow
Trad 2 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 39
Unnamed 10+ (steep thin hands dihedra…
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 9
Left of 5.10 Flake
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 32
Formerly Aided
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 107
Blue Gramma
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
 7
Desert Siren (Tower)
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Unnamed 9+ (big hands dihed…
 195
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Petrelli Motors
 130
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Dawn of an Age
 104
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Unnamed II (fingers through…
 79
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Hayley's Heyday
 43
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Unnamed 5.10 Flake
 33
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Orion's Bow
 6
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad 2 pitches
Unnamed 10+ (steep thin han…
 39
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Left of 5.10 Flake
 9
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Formerly Aided
 32
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Blue Gramma
 107
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Desert Siren (Tower)
 7
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 Trad, Sport 2 pitches
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It actually is "Blue Gamma", after a type of grass, not a little old lady.

The cliff offers a lot of nice cracks. First timers at IC may appreciate that the lines are shorter, requiring less endurance and smaller racks. Still good stuff though. Mar 13, 2002
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
That named seemed more logical, but all the guidebooks and every web reference I've come across refer to it as "Blue Gramma", so I went with that. I don't know if it was originally named Blue Gamma and then became corrupted or what-not. Apr 1, 2002
Actually, Blue Gramma is the proper name of the grass you are talking about.. Jun 15, 2002
Blue Gamma! The grass is called Blue Grama. Apr 28, 2003
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
I thought Blue Grama was what you get when Grampa passes away. Sorry ... May 1, 2003
I always thought that it was originally named "blue gamma." As in gamma rays. Then it was nicknamed "my blue haired gramma" which eventually became "blue gramma."
Don't ask me how I know this! Jun 11, 2009
I lost my 60m red/grey rope in Indian Creek. Blue Gramma (gamma?) was the last place I can remember having it. If you've found my rope here please shoot me a message! Thanks! Mar 21, 2017

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