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(CLOSED - SPRING 2018 RAPTOR NESTING) - Reservoir Wall Rock Climbing


Routes in (CLOSED - SPRING 2018 RAPTOR NESTING) - Reservoir Wall

Arch Arrival T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Carruthers-Hauser T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cyborg T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dr. Carl T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dreadasaurus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ernie Used to Box T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Excuse Et Moi T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Excuse Station T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Finger Food T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
From Switzerland With Love T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Frosted Flakes T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Good Excuse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gurka T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karl's Excuse T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Left Crack T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Less Than Zero T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Lonesome Dove T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Machete T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Marvelous! T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mega Bucks T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Middle Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mud dahbber T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ninja T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
No Excuse T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Overlook, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pat's Crack T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Pente T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pirate Treasure T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Raja T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rez Dawgs T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Sharka Zulu T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Skank on the Hanglow T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slot Machine T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Speedy Gonzales T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sumo T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Three Fools T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trust it T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Unknown 2 pitch route left of 3 fools T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown 5.10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 5.11- (really long thin hands corner) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown Offwidth R of wigglin' worm T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed 38 - wide to fists and kind of wavy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unnamed 5.10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.10 ( 45 in 2013 Edition) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.10 (Bloom Route 12) - popular hands corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Warm-Up Handcrack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wigglin' Worm T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Will-Mento T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
unknown offwidth T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. Details

Description [Edit]

This cliff stays shaded for much of the day and is good during the late spring or early fall. Overall, route concentration here isn’t quite as high as some other cliffs, but route quality is.

Important - Stay off the part of the wall that faces the road. If you are looking down at the water, then you shouldn’t be there. Access is touchy. Yes, there are good climbs there, but no, you don’t want to ruin access for everyone and there are just a few hundred other good climbs in the Creek.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings. These cracks aren't going anywhere, please respect the closure and spread the word.

Getting There [Edit]

Go approximately 8 miles past Newspaper Rock. Pass the reservoir on your right. Just a bit further down the road and also on your right, across from the road for Beef Basin, is the parking for this wall. Pass through the gate and veer slightly right, eventually hitting a trail. There are 2 branches off this trail. The first one puts you closer to the road, near Pente and the further trail leads you to about where Excuse Station is.

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Classic Climbing Routes at (CLOSED - SPRING 2018 RAPTOR NESTING) - Reservoir Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 220
Dr. Carl
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 150
Unnamed 5.10 (Bloom Route 12) - popu…
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 204
Warm-Up Handcrack
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 62
Three Fools
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 41
Ernie Used to Box
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 303
Pente
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 50
No Excuse
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 194
Excuse Station
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 30
Raja
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 39
Wigglin' Worm
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 39
Finger Food
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 95
Slot Machine
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 28
Ninja
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 53
Gurka
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 71
Middle Crack
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Dr. Carl
 220
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Unnamed 5.10 (Bloom Route…
 150
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Warm-Up Handcrack
 204
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Three Fools
 62
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Ernie Used to Box
 41
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Pente
 303
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
No Excuse
 50
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Excuse Station
 194
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Raja
 30
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Wigglin' Worm
 39
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Finger Food
 39
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Slot Machine
 95
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Ninja
 28
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Gurka
 53
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Middle Crack
 71
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in (CLOSED - SPRING 2018 RAPTOR NESTING) - Reservoir Wall »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Ben F
Benfield, Kolorado
Ben F   Benfield, Kolorado
I was told (this past week) that climbing on the portions of the cliff facing the road is not a problem. However, approach as stated above and do not cross the private property. Note that this is what I "heard" and it needs to be verified as does my closure warning. Nov 25, 2001
Rob T  
As of May of 06, Heidi(Dugout Ranch) would still prefer that climbers not climb on the front face of Resevoir. It sucks, but there are tons of walls down there, i don't think we really need to force the issue on this one. Sep 11, 2006
Monty
Golden, CO
Monty   Golden, CO  
Not sure if the access has changed, but it doesn't seem as if anyone is following/ know about these guidelines as there is no information actually posted at any of the bulletin boards or at the wall. Oct 17, 2009
Devin Fin
DURANGO
Devin Fin   DURANGO
big rock fell around the over look speedy Gonzalez area mid June .. hope the two routs made it? this wall is coming apart. over the last ten years i have seen it falling off from pods wall to excuse station! Jun 29, 2010

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