Elevation: 7,035 ft
GPS: 37.603, -109.793 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 19,697 total · 90/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Sep 16, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Texas Canyon and adjoining Arch Canyon is a beautiful and very remote part of Colorado Plateau. Climbing here is of the high adventure variety - it makes Island in the Sky look crowded.

The two best known features are Texas Tower - an enormous tower in the the running for biggest tower in the desert and home of a long offwidth horror show, and Dreamspeaker - much less involved than Texas Tower, but still a stout outing.

There are a handful of other documented routes in the area, and many other potentially unclimbed towers and canyon walls. In addition to the climbing, there are a large number of Anasazi cliff dwellings and pictographs on the cliffs in the area.

Getting There

Head west on SH 95 from US 191 just south of Blanding. Pass through Comb Ridge, and after around 20 miles head right on an unmarked dirt road. This road is about a mile east of the marked road to Mule Wash, so backtracking after missing the turnoff is likely.

The approaches to everything in Texas Canyon are different and involved, so they will be described separately for each rock.

3 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Texas Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C2
 4
East Face of Texas Tower
Trad, Aid 7 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 3
South Face
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
East Face of Texas Tower Texas Tower
 4
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C2 Trad, Aid 7 pitches
South Face Texas Tower
 3
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
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