Elevation: 5,427 ft
GPS: 38.284, -111.248 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 84,412 total · 396/month
Shared By: Paul Nelson on Aug 25, 2002 with improvements by JaredG
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
Access Issue: Permit Required Details

Description

Capitol Reef National Park has a fair selection of good Wingate crack routes. The only detractions are sometimes long approaches, and an NPS moratorium on any new anchor bolting. There is also a moseratelt good bouldering area about fifteen minutes to the west of the park outside Bicknell.

Getting There

Get to Capitol Reef either by way of highway 24 (from I-70 to Hanksville, and then west to the park), or by highway 50 (east off of I-15 from Scipio to Salina, and then southeast on highway 24 through Loa, Bicknell, and Torrey to the park).

Most (if not all) of the actual climbing areas are along the scenic drive, a paved road that goes along the backside of the reef south from the park visitor center.

48 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Capitol Reef National Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V2 5+
 4
Lithic Scatter
Boulder
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 14
Left and Right Practice Cracks
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 13
Classic Handcrack
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
White Men Can't Jam
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
False Premonitions
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 8
Sharon's crack
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Bench Warmer
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 6
BFF
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Capitol Gorgeous
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Boulder Overhang
Trad, TR
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 4
Capitol Roof
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 4
Phi Slamma Jamma
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 3
Terrible Two's
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Lithic Scatter Grand Wash Boul… > Everett Ruess Memoria…
 4
V2 5+ Boulder
Left and Right Practice Cracks Terrible Twos Wall
 14
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Classic Handcrack Capitol Gorge
 13
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
White Men Can't Jam Basketball Wall/Slick…
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
False Premonitions Capitol Gorge
 6
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Sharon's crack Terrible Twos Wall
 8
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Bench Warmer Basketball Wall/Slick…
 3
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
BFF Grand Wash Area
 6
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Capitol Gorgeous Capitol Gorge
 3
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Boulder Overhang Grand Wash Boul… > Hand Crack Boulder
 4
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Capitol Roof Miscellaneous Routes…
 4
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Phi Slamma Jamma Basketball Wall/Slick…
 4
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Terrible Two's Terrible Twos Wall
 3
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Capitol Reef National Park »

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