Description

Capitol Reef National Park has a fair selection of good Wingate crack routes. The only detractions are sometimes long approaches, and an NPS moratorium on any new anchor bolting. There is also a moseratelt good bouldering area about fifteen minutes to the west of the park outside Bicknell.

Getting There

Get to Capitol Reef either by way of highway 24 (from I-70 to Hanksville, and then west to the park), or by highway 50 (east off of I-15 from Scipio to Salina, and then southeast on highway 24 through Loa, Bicknell, and Torrey to the park).

Most (if not all) of the actual climbing areas are along the scenic drive, a paved road that goes along the backside of the reef south from the park visitor center.

49 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Capitol Reef National Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 11
Left and Right Practice Cracks
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 12
Classic Handcrack
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 5
False Premonitions
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 5
Sharon's crack
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
BFF
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Capitol Gorgeous
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Boulder Overhang
Trad, TR
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 3
Capitol Roof
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 4
Phi Slamma Jamma
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 3
Terrible Two's
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Left and Right Practice Cracks Terrible Twos Wall
 11
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Classic Handcrack Capitol Gorge
 12
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
False Premonitions Capitol Gorge
 5
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Sharon's crack Terrible Twos Wall
 5
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
BFF Grand Wash Area
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Capitol Gorgeous Capitol Gorge
 3
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Boulder Overhang Grand Wash Boul… > Hand Crack Boulder
 3
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Capitol Roof Miscellaneous Routes…
 3
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Phi Slamma Jamma Basketball Wall/Slick…
 4
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Terrible Two's Terrible Twos Wall
 3
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Capitol Reef National Park »

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Photos

George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Anybody climbed in Cathedral Valley? Looks spectacular but the rock maybe not so good. But better than the Fisher Towers?

terragalleria.com/parks/np-… May 26, 2013
Jared Spaulding
Central WY
Jared Spaulding   Central WY
George

Cathedral Valley is indeed spectacular. Unfortunately it is off limits to climbing. From the close non-climbing inspection I have done of it is indeed similar to the Fisher Towers. Folks may have climbed on it prior to its closure (I am unsure of when it was officially closed). There are very similar towers further east (and out of the Park) along the northern edge of the Moroni Slopes and near Salt Wash mountainproject.com/v/the-m… Jun 5, 2013
Climbing policy as of 2014:
nps.gov/care/planyourvisit/… Nov 18, 2017