Elevation: | 4,025 ft |
GPS: | 38.563, -109.542 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 3,416,466 total · 16,207/month |
Shared By: | Leo Paik on Dec 31, 2000 |
Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Description
The Moab area in the eastern section of Utah is amazlingly rich with bountiful opportunities for the rock climber who can appreciate the stark beauty of soft sandstone in a desert environment. There is more than a lifetime of climbing here!
Moab is a small community, located along US 191 at the intersection with SR 128 (River Rd) south of I-70, which has become popular with the climbing and mountain biking communities of late. Its elevation at 4025' make spring and fall make for the most pleasant times for visitors. It is generally quite dry here; however, wandering along the River Road after a large rainfall can provide spectacular waterfall viewing.
Here, you can find climbs ranging from 1 pitch sport climbs up to 600' desert spires to multi-day adventures on the 900' The Titan to 1200' ridge/aid climbs like Everyman's Endless Edge. Desert spires can be hauntingly beautiful like Moses, Zeus, and Aphrodite in Taylor Canyon. Of course, there is the world-class desert crack climbing of Indian Creek. There miles and miles of cliffs along the River Road. You will find an wide range of subtle variations in rock type: the splitter-crack-forming Windgate, the ultra-soft Entrada, the gorgeous Navajo, the oddly solid-yet crumbly Cutler, the interesting mid-layers of Chinle, Kayenta, and more. You must be cautious treading on desert rock for longer-than-you-think after any significant precipitation. Most folks will find the Windgate to be most inviting here.
You climbing armamentarium will likely include beefier ropes, helmets, plenty of cams, a healthy supply of tape, and likely some anti-inflammatories for afterwards. Most adventure climbs will require at least a double set of cams. New climbs may require investigation of the pro & cons of desert anchors like drilled angle pins vs. expansion bolts vs. glue-in bolts. You will likely find your gear shedding red sandstone dust for days after your visits. New climbs in the National Parks may require particular creativity for new anchors. Some adventure climbs will require high-clearance 4WD type vehicle to allow access.
You can climb truly roadside all the way to real adventure climbing. Weather can vary from extremes of debilitating heat to mud-trapping rain storms to frosty climes. Pay particular attention to quick-moving lightning storms, since these are probably a climber's biggest threat here.
Be particularly careful with the delicate cryptogametic soils in the area which are key in providing soil stability and microbiotic communities in what looks like mud.
There are some areas with strict regulations, particularly in the National Parks like Canyonlands N.P. and Arches N.P. So, check in advance. In particular, be extremely respectful of any petroglyphs or pictographs you find.
Nonetheless, come find your personal gems here....
Moab is a small community, located along US 191 at the intersection with SR 128 (River Rd) south of I-70, which has become popular with the climbing and mountain biking communities of late. Its elevation at 4025' make spring and fall make for the most pleasant times for visitors. It is generally quite dry here; however, wandering along the River Road after a large rainfall can provide spectacular waterfall viewing.
Here, you can find climbs ranging from 1 pitch sport climbs up to 600' desert spires to multi-day adventures on the 900' The Titan to 1200' ridge/aid climbs like Everyman's Endless Edge. Desert spires can be hauntingly beautiful like Moses, Zeus, and Aphrodite in Taylor Canyon. Of course, there is the world-class desert crack climbing of Indian Creek. There miles and miles of cliffs along the River Road. You will find an wide range of subtle variations in rock type: the splitter-crack-forming Windgate, the ultra-soft Entrada, the gorgeous Navajo, the oddly solid-yet crumbly Cutler, the interesting mid-layers of Chinle, Kayenta, and more. You must be cautious treading on desert rock for longer-than-you-think after any significant precipitation. Most folks will find the Windgate to be most inviting here.
You climbing armamentarium will likely include beefier ropes, helmets, plenty of cams, a healthy supply of tape, and likely some anti-inflammatories for afterwards. Most adventure climbs will require at least a double set of cams. New climbs may require investigation of the pro & cons of desert anchors like drilled angle pins vs. expansion bolts vs. glue-in bolts. You will likely find your gear shedding red sandstone dust for days after your visits. New climbs in the National Parks may require particular creativity for new anchors. Some adventure climbs will require high-clearance 4WD type vehicle to allow access.
You can climb truly roadside all the way to real adventure climbing. Weather can vary from extremes of debilitating heat to mud-trapping rain storms to frosty climes. Pay particular attention to quick-moving lightning storms, since these are probably a climber's biggest threat here.
Be particularly careful with the delicate cryptogametic soils in the area which are key in providing soil stability and microbiotic communities in what looks like mud.
There are some areas with strict regulations, particularly in the National Parks like Canyonlands N.P. and Arches N.P. So, check in advance. In particular, be extremely respectful of any petroglyphs or pictographs you find.
Nonetheless, come find your personal gems here....
Accomodations
There are a variety of options here which range from primitive bivies, to BLM camping for pay or not, to National Park camping, to motels or hotels in Moab, to fancy resort/ranch accomodations along the River Road or Castle Valley, to bed & breakfasts in Moab.
Guidebooks
There have been a decent assortment of rock guidebooks to the area. E. Bjornstad's Desert Rock, Desert Rock I, Desert Rock II, Desert Rock IV, F. Knapp's Classic Desert Climbs, M. Comacchione's 200 Select Classic Indian Creek guidebook, Sharp End's Indian Creek Climbs, & S. Green's Rock Climbing Utah can provide starting points for your adventures.
For ice climbers, consider, D. Black's Ice Climbing Utah by Falcon Press.
For ice climbers, consider, D. Black's Ice Climbing Utah by Falcon Press.
Rest day activities
If you must rest, you can select from options like rafting, mountain-biking, hiking, petroglyph viewing, wine tasting at the Castle River wineries, flying, fishing, canyoneering, and general tourist activities here. Moab provides a central point for a wealth of non-climbing adventures.
Organizations
Note, that the Access Fund in conjuction with dedicated local climbers have been particularly pivotal in the area in preserving access to these local & national treasures. Immense thanks to those involved!
Classic Climbing Routes at Moab Area
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Weather Averages
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Photos
13 Comments
More About Moab Area
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Guidebooks (8)
Fixed Hardware Report (1)
Salt Lake City, UT
Good routes are most anything sunny at Indian Creek or Wall Street and Kor-Ingalls on Castleton. v Most long routes will be cold. Dec 19, 2007
Brighton, CO
Fort Collins, Colorado
moab, utah
www.sharpendbooks.com
100% of royalties go the Access Fund. May 8, 2014
San Francisco, California
Salt Lake City, UT
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Thanks! May 16, 2016