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Areas in Moab Area

191 South 14 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 17
Arch Canyon 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 4
Arches National Park 66 / 11 / 1 / 5 / 0 / 24 / 0 / 0 / 82
Bartlett Wash 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Blanding 0 / 0 / 3 / 44 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 47
Bluff 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 14
Canyon Rims Recreation Area 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 3
Castle Valley 54 / 3 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 56
Comb Ridge 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Crackhouse 3 / 1 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Fisher Towers 34 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 38 / 0 / 0 / 47
Four Arch Canyon 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Hammond Canyon 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Harts Draw 29 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 30
Hell Roaring Canyon 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 6
Hidden Valley 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Hideout Wall 14 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 15
High Valley 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Indian Creek 1105 / 9 / 11 / 3 / 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 1117
Island In The Sky 40 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 42
Jackson Hole 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1
Kane Springs Canyon 87 / 23 / 1 / 8 / 0 / 16 / 0 / 0 / 113
La Sal Mountains 9 / 45 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 54
Little Valley 20 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 22
Lockhart Basin 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 8
Lost World Butte Area 22 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18 / 0 / 0 / 24
Maze District, The 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 3
Mill Creek 16 / 36 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 51
Moab Rim Area 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 11
Moab's Wall of Winter Warmth 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Needles District, The 4 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 5
North Fork 6 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
Onion Creek 17 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14 / 0 / 0 / 19
Potash Road 207 / 85 / 14 / 12 / 0 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 295
River Road 64 / 19 / 1 / 82 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 162
Sand Flats 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 4
Spring Canyon 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 6
State Highway 313 11 / 16 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 25
Texas Canyon 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 3
Tusher Canyon 33 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 36
Upheaval Dome 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Valley of the Gods/Mexican Hat 40 / 2 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 22 / 0 / 0 / 47

Description

The Moab area in the eastern section of Utah is amazlingly rich with bountiful opportunities for the rock climber who can appreciate the stark beauty of soft sandstone in a desert environment. There is more than a lifetime of climbing here!

Moab is a small community, located along US 191 at the intersection with SR 128 (River Rd) south of I-70, which has become popular with the climbing and mountain biking communities of late. Its elevation at 4025' make spring and fall make for the most pleasant times for visitors. It is generally quite dry here; however, wandering along the River Road after a large rainfall can provide spectacular waterfall viewing.

Here, you can find climbs ranging from 1 pitch sport climbs up to 600' desert spires to multi-day adventures on the 900' The Titan to 1200' ridge/aid climbs like Everyman's Endless Edge. Desert spires can be hauntingly beautiful like Moses, Zeus, and Aphrodite in Taylor Canyon. Of course, there is the world-class desert crack climbing of Indian Creek. There miles and miles of cliffs along the River Road. You will find an wide range of subtle variations in rock type: the splitter-crack-forming Windgate, the ultra-soft Entrada, the gorgeous Navajo, the oddly solid-yet crumbly Cutler, the interesting mid-layers of Chinle, Kayenta, and more. You must be cautious treading on desert rock for longer-than-you-think after any significant precipitation. Most folks will find the Windgate to be most inviting here.

You climbing armamentarium will likely include beefier ropes, helmets, plenty of cams, a healthy supply of tape, and likely some anti-inflammatories for afterwards. Most adventure climbs will require at least a double set of cams. New climbs may require investigation of the pro & cons of desert anchors like drilled angle pins vs. expansion bolts vs. glue-in bolts. You will likely find your gear shedding red sandstone dust for days after your visits. New climbs in the National Parks may require particular creativity for new anchors. Some adventure climbs will require high-clearance 4WD type vehicle to allow access.

You can climb truly roadside all the way to real adventure climbing. Weather can vary from extremes of debilitating heat to mud-trapping rain storms to frosty climes. Pay particular attention to quick-moving lightning storms, since these are probably a climber's biggest threat here.

Be particularly careful with the delicate cryptogametic soils in the area which are key in providing soil stability and microbiotic communities in what looks like mud.

There are some areas with strict regulations, particularly in the National Parks like Canyonlands N.P. and Arches N.P. So, check in advance. In particular, be extremely respectful of any petroglyphs or pictographs you find.

Nonetheless, come find your personal gems here....
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Accomodations

There are a variety of options here which range from primitive bivies, to BLM camping for pay or not, to National Park camping, to motels or hotels in Moab, to fancy resort/ranch accomodations along the River Road or Castle Valley, to bed & breakfasts in Moab.

Guidebooks

There have been a decent assortment of rock guidebooks to the area. E. Bjornstad's Desert Rock, Desert Rock I, Desert Rock II, Desert Rock IV, F. Knapp's Classic Desert Climbs, M. Comacchione's 200 Select Classic Indian Creek guidebook, Sharp End's Indian Creek Climbs, & S. Green's Rock Climbing Utah can provide starting points for your adventures.

For ice climbers, consider, D. Black's Ice Climbing Utah by Falcon Press.

Rest day activities

If you must rest, you can select from options like rafting, mountain-biking, hiking, petroglyph viewing, wine tasting at the Castle River wineries, flying, fishing, canyoneering, and general tourist activities here. Moab provides a central point for a wealth of non-climbing adventures.

Organizations

Note, that the Access Fund in conjuction with dedicated local climbers have been particularly pivotal in the area in preserving access to these local & national treasures. Immense thanks to those involved!

2,402 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

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Classic Climbing Routes at Moab Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
North Chimney
Trad 4 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Supercrack of the Desert
Trad 3 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Incredible Hand Crack
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0
Stolen Chimney
Trad, Aid
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jah Man
Trad 5 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fine Jade
Trad 5 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
North Face
Trad 3 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pente
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Lightning Bolt Cracks
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Guy
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scarface
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sinestra
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Primrose Dihedrals
Trad 7 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Annunaki
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Way Rambo
Trad
North Chimney Castle Valley > Castleton Tower 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Supercrack of the Desert Indian Creek > Supercrack Buttress 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Incredible Hand Crack Indian Creek > Supercrack Buttress 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Stolen Chimney Fisher Towers > Ancient Art 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0 Trad, Aid
Jah Man Castle Valley > Sister Superior Group 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 5 pitches
Fine Jade Castle Valley > Rectory 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 5 pitches
North Face Castle Valley > Castleton Tower 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
Pente Indian Creek > Reservoir Wall 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Lightning Bolt Cracks Indian Creek > N Six Shooter Peak 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Big Guy Indian Creek > Scarface 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Scarface Indian Creek > Scarface 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Sinestra Indian Creek > Original Meat Wall 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Primrose Dihedrals Island In The Sky > Moses 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 7 pitches
Annunaki Indian Creek > Optimator 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Way Rambo Indian Creek > Way Rambo 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Moab Area »

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Photos

I'm planning on camping in the area next weekend with the family. Any recommendations on easy 5th class rocks around that would be good to take the kids out on?

Thanks! May 16, 2016
Just a friendly reminder to everyone putting up new routes, highlines and replacing old anchors(thanks!). Camouflaging hardware is the standard, to help minimize visual impacts, and minimize any access issues. A little bit of rust colored spray paint is cheap,and goes a long way. Thanks and happy FAing. Apr 15, 2016
Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
New Year Blocks from Gaar on Vimeo. Jan 2, 2016
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
It varies, but usually the sunny aspects are fine in the winter. Don't climb if it is wet from rain or melting snow. I've climbed Castleton in January in a t-shirt, but i've also totally frozen in March. One nice thing is that motels in Moab are typically really cheap in the winter, which can be nice during the very long cold nights. Dec 4, 2015
Tommy Chheng
San Francisco, California
Tommy Chheng   San Francisco, California
Is the area climbable in the winter months here? Dec 3, 2015
discovermoab.com/climbing_m… just launched 2014-2015 to point out basic climbing, canyoneering and bouldering for Moab. Thanks Fred Knapp for permission to use parts of High on Moab on this webpage for Moab. Feb 6, 2015
High on Moab, the greatest guidebook ever to the Moab area, has been sent to the printer. You can pre-purchase a copy now and get free shipping and a 2-year eBook subscription. Written by a true Moab local, the guide covers summer crags in the LaSal Mountains, as well as the classic towers, new and old crags, bouldering, recently developed sport climbing....

www.sharpendbooks.com

100% of royalties go the Access Fund. May 8, 2014
paul bucher
moab, utah
paul bucher   moab, utah
check out Utopia for some non gear intense routes Apr 3, 2013
Drew Hallett
Fort Collins, Colorado
Drew Hallett   Fort Collins, Colorado
i was wondering where the best place to climb pure sport routes in moab is? sadly i dont have trad gear but i want to climb while im there. Mar 8, 2013
Chalk Norris
Brighton, CO
Chalk Norris   Brighton, CO
Hey 2112 I will be coming down soon like 2 weeks and was looking for a hotel. I am super excited that you are climbing friendly. Ignore buddy (joel Hicock) I really appreciate the fact that you advertised here. May 14, 2012
I am an avid climber and love Indian creek so much I decided to by a hotel Inn at the Canyons, Monticello, Utah so I could be closer. I offer all climbers a 25% on rooms if you just mention you are a climber. My name is jared, owner of inn at the canyons and if you stay I can reccomend some amazing climbs that only locals know about. Hope to see you here. Reservations 435 587-2458 Oct 15, 2009
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
Yeah, chase the sun. I've put away the rack and skiied in the La Salles in January, and i've climbed Castleton in a sweater. You just never know.

Good routes are most anything sunny at Indian Creek or Wall Street and Kor-Ingalls on Castleton. v Most long routes will be cold. Dec 19, 2007
Hell yes it's recommended! Climb any South face you want. Dec 19, 2007

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