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Incisor

S Dakota > Custer SP > Picket Fence

Description

The Incisor is a large blocky rock about 100 feet high. This rock has old trad routes, new bolted routes, and boulder problems on it. The trad routes include an old Royal Robbins route, and a John Gill route. Three bolted routes can be found that are probably in the range of 5.10 to 5.11. Also, several boulder problems exist on the northwest face of the rock. Look for about a half dozen old Gill that lead to a small ledge about 15 feet up next to a piton.

Getting There

Follow the directions for the Picket Fence to the top of the hill area with no vegatation. The Incisor is the obvious rock just to the right of the trail. It can be identified by a seam with two pitons in it facing the trail.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 6
● Laughing Gas
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 1
● Teeth on Edge
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 2
● Pearly Whites
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 2
● Curt Marshaled
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 1
● Kamps-Gill route (Original route)
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 2
● Flouride Treatment
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Laughing Gas
 6
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
● Teeth on Edge
 1
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
● Pearly Whites
 2
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
● Curt Marshaled
 2
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Kamps-Gill route (Original…
 1
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad
● Flouride Treatment
 2
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

incisor with the Gill routes on the Northface
[Hide Photo] incisor with the Gill routes on the Northface

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Sue and Jim
[Hide Comment] What is the name & rating of the bolted route on the right corner as you look at Incisor from the trail (i.e. to the right of the Gill problems)? Aug 25, 2008
John Gill
Colorado
[Hide Comment] Bob Kamps writes in his guidebook(1971) that he and I made the FA of the Incisor in 1961. However, I remember him doing the climb with someone else, and my wife, Lora, and I made the second ascent. But I could be wrong. The initial route is around the right corner in the photo, and uses a tree to put a protective sling for the first part of the climb. Royal's route (1964) is further to the right and goes up unpleasantly loose rock. I think when I did the second ascent I was able to get some sort of tree sling protection that Royal avoided. He also tried leading the face in the photo with me belaying, but backed off. I think Pete Cleveland top-roped it sometime later. The bouldering area on the lower face is fun, but not overly challenging. April 11, 2021 Apr 11, 2021