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Routes in Phallus

Phallus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Description

Another Classic needles spire. It would be climbed more if people knew how to get to it.

Getting There

The Phallus is on the Northeast and downhill side of Picture rock. It is basically right behind (east) picture rock. You can either walk up hill from the Catherderal Spires parking lot or descend from the top from picture rock. The classic route starts on the North side just below picture rock at the obvious crack system.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Phallus

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phallus
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Phallus 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
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rgold
Poughkeepsie, NY
rgold   Poughkeepsie, NY
I don't know if Lauria was used as ballast on the Phallus, but that was a technique we used from time to time to get off a pinnacle without leaving anything behind, so it is certainly possible. Sep 4, 2013
Yet another gem of a Bob Kamps route. I remember being gripped and I clipped the bolt, which I now understand to be a retro job.

Rich, do you happen to know if there is any truth to the the guidebook anecdote about the FA? Apparently Kamps didn't like the rap bolt that was drilled so they used Lauria as a counterweight backup (webbing around his wrists?) for the first 3 rappels. Must have drawn the short straw. Jul 22, 2012
rgold
Poughkeepsie, NY
rgold   Poughkeepsie, NY
Grade: 5.8

First ascent: Bob Kamps, Dave Rearick, Mark Powell, Don Lauria, August 1965

The only bolt placed was for rappelling. Jul 16, 2012
SThal
Logan, UT
SThal   Logan, UT
Climb chimney farthest from Cathedral Spires parking lot (could get a #4 or 5?) up left to big flakes/horns, belay there, then down and left to seam/crack protected with nuts and pins, then up to summit. One rope descent. There is a bolt on this one and rappel anchors. Very fun. Jul 15, 2011

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