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Routes in Queen Pin

Dairy Queen S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Off With Their Heads S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Queen's Gambit, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Standard Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elevation: 6,270 ft
GPS: 43.84, -103.536 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 2,489 total, 14/month
Shared By: Kevin Fons on Mar 9, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

Description

One of the Ten Pins. The Standard / Original Route is a Needles Classic. Bold and Steep on all sides there are no "easy" routes Queenpin.There has been quite a few new bolted routes put up recently on Queenpin. One to the left of the Original route and three on the East side facing Ceberus.

Getting There

Located between Kingpin and Ceberus. The standard route is reached by following the gully to the right of Kingpin up past Kingpin to the base of Queenpin. The new routes are reached as you would Ceberus except you head up one gully sooner to reach the base of the East Face.

4 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Queen Pin

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Standard Route
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dairy Queen
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Standard Route 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Dairy Queen 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
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Erik Gearhart
Seattle, WA
Erik Gearhart   Seattle, WA
Why the bolt on Super Pin was pulled--and new grid bolting on Queen Pin is allowed to stay--is yet another Needles mystery. I've been climbing in the Needles for nearly 30 years--the adventure and absence of sport crags--and sport crowds--is what pulls me there. Queen Pin was gorgeous in its absence of sported-up nonsense, and those routes were long-established top-ropes with a no-bolting consensus published in many guidebooks. The new lines are literally three feet apart with huge, shiny bolts that even detract from ascents of Cerberus.

No generation needs to "own" an area, but I wish some of the new boys would give a decent respect to the long-standing culture of what is an increasingly rare area character. Oct 12, 2017

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