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Tricouni Nail/Cerberus

S Dakota > Custer SP > Tenpins/Switchbacks

Description

The Tricouni Nail is the distinctive three-headed spire in the middle of the Ten Pins cluster. Tricouni Nail is the original name for this spire, though Royal Robbins renamed it Cerberus when he made the first ascent.

This is one of the most classic climbs in the Black Hills, and the descent is a notorious though completely secure simulrappel from the top. No anchors exist on the summit, so the rope must be layed in between two of the horns with one climber rappeling off each side simultaneously. Be sure to maintain good communication with your partner while doing this because you end on opposite sides of the spire. Local climbers harvest booty almost daily from people unfamiliar with this technique.

Getting There

The spire is hard to miss with its three heads. Scramble up into the middle of the spires, and climb the side facing Queen Pin(the larger mass of spires away from the Cathedral Spires).

Routes from Left to Right

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 189
Cerberus
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
 4
East Face Rotert/Fowler Route
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
 1
Unknown
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cerberus
 189
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
East Face Rotert/Fowler Route
 4
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Trad
Unknown
 1
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Keen and Tara topping out on The Tricouni Nail
[Hide Photo] Keen and Tara topping out on The Tricouni Nail
Inquisitive locals crowding the belay.
[Hide Photo] Inquisitive locals crowding the belay.
Super Pin & Tricouni Climbers near summits
[Hide Photo] Super Pin & Tricouni Climbers near summits
from afar
[Hide Photo] from afar
Crew from Boulder, CO on 7/5/09. Photo taken from the top of 'Tee the Ball'.
[Hide Photo] Crew from Boulder, CO on 7/5/09. Photo taken from the top of 'Tee the Ball'.
Dean Allison and Gary Schmidt enjoying the summit
[Hide Photo] Dean Allison and Gary Schmidt enjoying the summit
Climber nearing the top of the Tricouni Nail, photo taken from Tee the Ball.
[Hide Photo] Climber nearing the top of the Tricouni Nail, photo taken from Tee the Ball.
Robin Bickford just cruised up the thing. I kept telling her to put in more gear but she didn't listen. I guess that's nothing new
[Hide Photo] Robin Bickford just cruised up the thing. I kept telling her to put in more gear but she didn't listen. I guess that's nothing new
Summit pose
[Hide Photo] Summit pose
Looking down at Tricouni's summit.
[Hide Photo] Looking down at Tricouni's summit.
Kasi cleaning up the Tricouni Nail.
[Hide Photo] Kasi cleaning up the Tricouni Nail.
View of the nail from superpin
[Hide Photo] View of the nail from superpin

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Note that the notch to the West is the better for the rope when Simul-raping becasue it will pull more easily and eat less of your rope. This is the right side when facing down-hill. Jul 30, 2006