ZZZZZ 5.9 R
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Randy Vogel, Charles Cole & Marjorie Shovlin 10/83. |
| Submitted By: | Randy on Nov 25, 2002 |
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Wendy climbing zzzzz......
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A portion of the wall is closed due to Indian rock art. MORE INFO >>>
The route Energy Crisis and the rock for 50' on either side of its are closed to climbing to protect Native American rock art in the vicinity.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This fun face route is on excellent rock near the left side of the right end of the East Face of Little Hunk. It lies just left of Electric Blue (5.11c).
Begin off a boulder and head up and right on face, then straight up past 2 bolts to a small horizontal break (gear possible here). Finish up and left reaching a large ledge.
This route is a bit run out, but nothing that a calm head won't solve.
Protection Thin to 2 inches. 2 bolt anchor/rap or easy walk-off to right.
BETA PHOTO: ZZZZZ
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BETA PHOTO: ZZZZZ (belay bolts are for illustration purposes)
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Lluis follows ZZZZ
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Lluis cleans the cam as he follows ZZZZ
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By Woody Stark
Oct 23, 2003
| I just couldn't believe it, but I think this classic is sandbagged a bit. Imagine that and at JT too. Anyone else feel abused by this route. Maybe I was lost and only thought I was on "Little Hunk". |
By Murf
Oct 24, 2003
| Did this route as recently as last year and don't remember any bolted anchor for it. There is an anchor to the climbers left, but it seems too "offline" to me. I've always belayed off gear. |
By Woody Stark
Nov 1, 2003
| From Randy's description, I wasn't on route. Both of us, Karen Briggs and myself, studied the face and were sure we were in the right spot. There were four bolts, and I assumed that two had been added over the years. I tried to get by the second bolt for at least an hour--frustrating and futile. Try again to find the correct route. |
By Murf
Nov 3, 2003
| As you look at the face above, there is a "mini-bandshell" ledge that has anchors for Electric Blue, a four bolt .11c. RIGHT of that are two new bolted routes. ZZZZZ starts LEFT of Electric Blue, and just touches the ledge on its left end. You'll know if you are on ZZZZZ, you are quite high before clipping the first bolt. |
By C Miller
Administrator
Feb 23, 2005
rating: 5.9 PG13
| An excellent route for those not leading at their limit. Great rock, fun movement and seldom any traffic on this one. Make sure you feel comfortable a ways out when doing this one - good practice for Suicide Rock or the like. Three stars out of five. |
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 19, 2008
| Engaging and enjoyable. Definitely runout between the 1st and 2nd bolt, but the moves are only 5.8ish - though they are steep and a touch insecure. The technical crux comes after the 2nd bolt, but you are only a a few feet beyond the bolt. You can sling a horn getting to the 1st bolt. At the ledge, gear is available (I placed some TCUs with long slings). Then move left (5.8ish again) and then head straight up. I thought about moving left to the anchors above the 10d, but they are quite a ways left and it seemed more natural (and easier) to head straight up. |
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jan 30, 2011
rating: 5.9 R
| Excellent route with intricate and wonderful moves and a big feel - certainly a JT classic. Cam placement in the diagonal crack just up from the start and left of where you step over, and as Andy says there's a great jug that would take a thin sling. |
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