ZZZZZ Direct Start  5.9 PG13

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Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  Bob Gaines, Todd Gordon, and Sara Matisse, Oct. 2012 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Bob Gaines on Nov 4, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Sara Matisse on the FA

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A portion of the wall is closed due to Indian rock art. MORE INFO >>> The route Energy Crisis and the rock for 50' on either side of its are closed to climbing to protect Native American rock art in the vicinity. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This is a 2-bolt direct start to ZZZZZ. Begin about 30 feet right of the normal start and climb up to and onto a dike (5.9), then tiptoe left to join ZZZZZ.

This start adds some quality moves to the pitch. I'd give ZZZZZ an extra star with the direct start (four stars instead of three).

Be forewarned that the direct start does not lesson the runnouts of the original route. Even though the direct start is well-protected, you still have to climb the runnout up to ZZZZZ's original first bolt (5.7 R) and the runnout from the first to the second bolt (5.8 PG) of the original route. Above this is a critical gear placement in a short crack (.75 inch, # .5 camalot) after which you can move up and right to a ledge with a 2-bolt anchor shared by Electric Blue/Blue Diamond/Electralux -or- move left and climb the face (5.8 PG) up to a big ledge and gear anchor. This is the line of the first ascent and gives you the full value pitch, although you'll need to scramble off right (class 3) and descend slabs on the north side of the formation.

Protection 

4 bolts, .75 inch CD,
gear anchor small to med.

Photos of ZZZZZ Direct Start Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: original start on left; direct start on ...