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4. Zorro Face
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Face is Great - Choss is Off S 
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Zorro S 
Zorro Corner (Son of Zorro) S 

Zorro 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,428
Submitted By: MojoMonkey on Mar 20, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Jeremy on his first RP of Zorro.

Description 

Oral tradition says this was the first route put up at Birdsboro. Walking along the trail, you see it jump out as the cleanest looking face climb in the quarry.

I started to the lower left of the face in a corner and then moved right to the face around to get to the first bolt. From there I stuck to the face, even though the arete or cracks near it were within reach. Instead I stuck to the thin, horizontal cracks/features on the mostly blank face.

Location 

Zorro Face

Protection 

3 bolts to anchor.


Photos of Zorro Slideshow Add Photo
Another shot of Jeremy putting Zorro to rest.
Another shot of Jeremy putting Zorro to rest.
Anna climbs Zorro Corner, with Zorro in good view ...
BETA PHOTO: Anna climbs Zorro Corner, with Zorro in good view ...

Comments on Zorro Add Comment
Show which comments
By MojoMonkey
Apr 21, 2009

Anyone want to describe this line? I started to the lower left of the face in a corner and then moved right to the face around to get to the first bolt. From there I stuck to the face, even though the arete or cracks near it were within reach. Instead I stuck to the thin, horizontal cracks/features on the mostly blank face.
By paclimber
Sep 27, 2009

I opt to start from the bottom of the face proper, which entails a tricky and long reach to a left hand slot that slopes away off of a decent but balancy left foot on the corner. I am 6'1" with a +2 ape index, which makes that possible for me. I don't think I have the skill to make that move without the benefeit of my reach. The remainder of the route is a little reachy to thin crimps/pods for both hands and feet on a slab a few degrees below vertical.
By Perrin
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 29, 2010

Most people I've talked to start out on the left, on the thin ledge that diagonals down from left to right. I will also agree that the arete is obviously off. Great face climb.
By Jr Peterson
From: Birdsboro
May 2, 2013

I always heard that faint and fracture where the first climbs put up back there.
By Matt Rhodin
From: Lexington, Massachusetts
Sep 23, 2014

5.12a? Just saw on rockclimbing.com it's only a 5.11b... can anyone shed some light on this?
By MojoMonkey
Sep 23, 2014

It depends on how much face (harder) vs arete (easier) climbing you do. The person that entered it stayed on the arete to the second bolt and then climbed the face and rated it 11a. Someone else called it 11b (the only person rating it so he is consensus by himself). He provided no description of the line he followed.

Never did hear which way is supposed to be 12a - face only? I haven't been back in the years since my last comment so couldn't even guess now.