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Yin and Yang Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Atman T 
Barely Nut-in T 
Bigwank T 
Boxing Day T 
Budda's Corner T 
Miniwanka T 
Shortwank T 
Sport Wanker Extraordinaire T 
Yin and Yang T 
Zoroaster T 
Unsorted Routes:

Zoroaster 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b X

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c X [details]
FA: unknown 1980's
Page Views: 1,372
Submitted By: J. Thompson on Apr 28, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Charlotte leading the Zoroaster chimney as one of ...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the obvious chimney just to the left of Atman.A perfect splitter knee and back chimney. A fun little route to tick off when you're done doing(or waiting for!) the classic's to the left and right!

Protection 

There is no gear! A solo or a TR.


Photos of Zoroaster Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: warming up for Epinephrine
warming up for Epinephrine

Comments on Zoroaster Add Comment
Show which comments
By Likeasummerthursday
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Aug 27, 2014

Probably some gear way back in the chimney--gonna check it out.
By Countzen
From: Santa Monica, CA
Nov 11, 2014

.... And we haven't heard back from climbing this X-route. uhoh.
By Mark P Thomas
From: Oakland
Jan 31, 2016
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

A #1 BD C4 protects this climb fine and it is a great introduction to leading chimneys for the novice chimney leader.

It is only 5.8 X if you climb straight up from the outside and ignore the rest of the chimney.

If you climb the chimney as you would any chimney on a trad climb, you can make it ~5.5 PG. Just walk inside about 10-15' to where a gigantic piece of the formation has fractured and tipped over, sealing the back of the chimney. This part is about cl. 4-5 chimneying on great washboard foot holds if you go right-side in. Place the bomber red cam in the leaning block and then stem & change sides to left-side in as you tunnel in to an even deeper slot formed by the backside of the leaning block. There is no pro in here, but there is nowhere to fall. It is now about 5.5 chimneying ('froggy' technique) to a chill topout on the formation (stay left, away from the wider chimney, for security).

Rock Climbing Photo: Charlotte leading the Zoroaster chimney as one of ...
Charlotte leading the Zoroaster chimney as one of her first chimney leads. She is in the second chimney on the technical crux.


Top rope can be set up by slinging a chicken head and using several 0.4 BD C4s. Optionally there is an indirect spot for a 0.4 BD C4. This top rope can easily be flipped around to TR Bigwank.

Be careful that the rope drags over a death block near the top. It is safe enough if the belayer stays far out to keep the rope angle better to avoid dragging over the rock. For the follower, the rope can be flipped into the second chimney, or at least if they climb deeper inside, exposure is limited.

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