Starts with a hard, bolt-protected mantel(10d), then follows two more bolts up easier climbing. Go slightly right over the small roof with a few finger jams. Then follow the knob climbing (10b) with natural gear for pro. A slight runout to an overlap near the top, but you can place a finger-sized nut immediately after. At the overlap, look for sidepulls on the left.
It is possible to skip the bottom mantel by climbing up to the right (~10a), then stepping onto the mantel ledge. Be careful of the landing though if you fail.
left of the tunnel, a stump makes a good belay rest
Bolts at the start, gear to number 2 camalot to finish.
By andyf From: Tacoma, WA Nov 8, 2007 rating: 5.10d6b+21VII+21E3 5b PG13
I agree this is a really good pitch (the route actually stretches for three pitches) and one of the better 5.10s at Index. The upper half of the climb has great movement and flow, especially through the knob section. A little more detail might be nice, though. For instance, bring along RPs/HBs or some other kind of micronut, because they're mandatory to protect the upper half of the climb, which mostly uses an incipient seam for pro. There's also a moderate runout to end the route. Right in the middle of the seam is God's Most Perfect Nut Placement (medium wired) to make things chill.
While at the base and preparing to climb, an unexplained rock came sailing from above. Also noticed very recent rockfall at the base of morning star (to the left of this climb). Yesterday a friend told me he heard from a local that Orc tower above is deteriorating and may be coming down soon, have not verified, but seems reasonable since rockfall occurred recently when I was there and you can see evidence of very fresh rockfall near-by. Something to consider while in the area.