This route has a good deal of varied climbing: crack, a traverse, an arete, some face and is the only route in the Jungle where you can easily top out on good rock to enjoy the view! A good warm up line that starts 5.6, then a 5.7 traverse leads to a 5.8 arete that finishes on a 5.9 face.
Near the end of the "Distant Drum Area" and the "Village Wall," this line requires a 4th class scramble up the talus chute for about 20 feet. This is the same approach to gain access to the chimney which leads to the top.
The 5.6 off width start is used only for gear, the abundant edges provide all one needs to set two #5s or a #5 and a #6. Two 5 ft. runners, five shoulder length runners, and five quick draws gets you to chains. One bolt mid way through is a bit off to the right. This sometimes happens in the Jungle when a conscientious route-setter chooses better rock over better reach location.
BETA PHOTO: Upper section after traverse
BETA PHOTO: Easy 5.6 start
BETA PHOTO: Up easy crack to bolt, traverse left around arete,...
Jan 20, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
This is a good route not to be missed. For a competent 5.9 leader, the OW start will be easy to do without bringing the big gear. The traverse is very exciting and the finish is loads of fun as well. I definitely suggest leaving the big gear on the ground though.