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Zoo Keeper 

Zoo Keeper 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Roy Suggett and Phillis Suggett-Sep. 2012
New Route: Yes
Season: May through October
Page Views: 273
Submitted By: Roy Suggett on Sep 4, 2012
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BETA PHOTO: Long runners can straighten out this line and make...


This route has a good deal of varied climbing: crack, a traverse, an arete, some face and is the only route in the Jungle where you can easily top out on good rock to enjoy the view! A good warm up line that starts 5.6, then a 5.7 traverse leads to a 5.8 arete that finishes on a 5.9 face.


Near the end of the "Distant Drum Area" and the "Village Wall," this line requires a 4th class scramble up the talus chute for about 20 feet. This is the same approach to gain access to the chimney which leads to the top.


The 5.6 off width start is used only for gear, the abundant edges provide all one needs to set two #5s or a #5 and a #6. Two 5 ft. runners, five shoulder length runners, and five quick draws gets you to chains. One bolt mid way through is a bit off to the right. This sometimes happens in the Jungle when a conscientious route-setter chooses better rock over better reach location.

Photos of Zoo Keeper Slideshow Add Photo
Upper section after traverse
BETA PHOTO: Upper section after traverse
Zoo Keeper start.
Zoo Keeper start.
Easy 5.6 start
BETA PHOTO: Easy 5.6 start
Up easy crack to bolt, traverse left around arete, then up (see next topo).
BETA PHOTO: Up easy crack to bolt, traverse left around arete,...
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By BSU_Zac
From: Cedar City, UT
Jan 20, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

This is a good route not to be missed. For a competent 5.9 leader, the OW start will be easy to do without bringing the big gear. The traverse is very exciting and the finish is loads of fun as well. I definitely suggest leaving the big gear on the ground though.