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Solar Collector/Gold Coast
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Zone of Silence 

Zone of Silence 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dave Hume
Page Views: 144
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 30, 2010
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Description 

This intruiging wall of pockets offers excellent climbing, but is unfortunately marred by contrived bolting. The author intended for the line to follow a monolithic panel of sparse pockets, and that is where the bolts were placed, despite a plentiful streak of pockets 4 feet right. The result is problematic whether climbed directly or following the path of least resistance, presenting confusing routefinding for those hoping to climb the original 12c vision, or difficult clips and unpleasant pendilum falls for the rest. Both lines offer generally shallow and slopey pockets that are not as good as they look from below. At the top, the lines converge forcing a tricky slab move to reach the anchor.


Location 

About 100 yds right of the main Gold Coast wall is a small buttress with a vertical left face, and slightly overhanging, heavily pocketed right face. This is the second bolted line from the left, on the leftt side of the buttress.


Protection 

5 Bolts, 2BA.



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