Zombies on the Lookout 5.9+ X
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | C. Griffith, P. Ament, 1980 |
| Season: | Faces S/SE |
| Submitted By: | Tony B on May 13, 2012 |
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2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>>
As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons.
The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152
From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
Action Committee for Eldorado
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Description This is an interesting section of rock, with a mental crux - wherever that may be. The protection for at least half of the route is poor to non-existent and would not hold a fall or perhaps a hang. Then you get a few good pieces after completing the crux.
Establish a belay out on the right hand margin of the South Face, left around the corner from the base of the lower ramp. From there, start climbing up and left on small features, rising up and left past the occasional junk gear placement. Just when it seams that the climbing gets hard enough to really require gear, break back to the right to better holds above a water-streak on a blank slab. Good gear comes just after that crux. Wander up into an obtuse, right-facing corner and to the edge of the ramp, then up and left to the tree with a sling belay/rap.
Rap to the base of the sub-ramp. A 70m rope gets you all the way down, a 60m takes you to a short and mellow scramble.
Location This route is reached from the base of the lower ramp, where one can traverse out and down around to the south face, just left of a small shallow cave, and ascends up a wandering line to reach the edge of the ramp and end at the tree anchor as for The Dispensary.
Protection A light rack of nuts and cams. You'll find opportunity to place a few pieces, the most important of which are small nuts and thin-hands and hand-sized cams.
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