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Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Apprehension T 
Arcane Saw T 
Bitter Route, The T,TR 
Breakfast Of Champions T,TR 
Cabana Boy T 
Candy-O T 
Captain 4Q aka Santa Ana T,TR 
Captain Crunch S 
Clyncke Punched a Hippy T 
Day Dream T,TR 
Dispensary, The T,S 
Eat or be Eaten aka Super Slab Direct aid variation T 
Flakey Floont T,TR 
Flower Quarter T,TR 
Greaser, The T 
Hasting's Cutoff T 
Lemon Line T 
Little Fish that Die Abruptly TR 
Loose Lucy T 
Lucid Dream T 
Micky Mouse Die-Rect T,TR 
Mr. Natural T 
Over 'ed Power Line T 
Phee-nix T 
Pickpocket T,TR 
Quantum Mechanics T 
Real Men Eat Eggs T 
Remention T 
Rough Roof T 
Roving for Love T 
Schizophrenia T 
Senora (??) T,TR 
Senorita T,TR 
Shadow T 
Slimy Spoon, The T 
Strangle Hold T,S 
Sub Slab T 
Suparete T,S 
Super Natural T 
Super Slab Direct Start T 
Tiny Line T 
Toys for Tots T,S 
Unknown 10c aka Quadrille S 
Velvet Arete aka Premonition, The T 
Velvet Hammer T 
Vertical Smile T 
Waking Sleep T 
Wave Rave aka Smoking Gun T 
Zombies on the Lookout T 

Zombies on the Lookout 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a X

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: C. Griffith, P. Ament, 1980
Season: Faces S/SE
Page Views: 169
Submitted By: Tony B on May 13, 2012

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  • Description 

    This is an interesting section of rock, with a mental crux - wherever that may be. The protection for at least half of the route is poor to non-existent and would not hold a fall or perhaps a hang. Then you get a few good pieces after completing the crux.

    Establish a belay out on the right hand margin of the South Face, left around the corner from the base of the lower ramp. From there, start climbing up and left on small features, rising up and left past the occasional junk gear placement. Just when it seams that the climbing gets hard enough to really require gear, break back to the right to better holds above a water-streak on a blank slab. Good gear comes just after that crux. Wander up into an obtuse, right-facing corner and to the edge of the ramp, then up and left to the tree with a sling belay/rap.

    Rap to the base of the sub-ramp. A 70m rope gets you all the way down, a 60m takes you to a short and mellow scramble.

    Location 

    This route is reached from the base of the lower ramp, where one can traverse out and down around to the south face, just left of a small shallow cave, and ascends up a wandering line to reach the edge of the ramp and end at the tree anchor as for ?The Dispensary?.

    Protection 

    A light rack of nuts and cams. You'll find opportunity to place a few pieces, the most important of which are small nuts and thin-hands and hand-sized cams.


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