P1: Climb either Breaking Rocks Is Hard To Do or Stab In The Dark to their shared belay on a ledge. If you wore a helmet, it would be best to leave it here.
P2: Climb the splitter 5.8ish crack up to some old, ratty looking slings. Going right is Doan's Pills, left is Zombie Woof. Go left! the first ten feet or so is probably the technical crux, but nothing about the wildly exposed roof traverse is as hard as it looks from the ground. At the end of the roof haul yourself up into the alcove and abandon the rest of your rack for your second to deal with. Wiggle out of the weird cave/squeeze chimney/slot and remember, it is not over until you are 100% out!
The roof traverse takes mid sized/bigger gear well.
From: Kent, WA
Mar 21, 2011
It was tight enough to make me consider getting a new, thinner harness... or eating less cheeseburgers. Being claustrophobic didn't help either. Fun climbing under the roof.
Jun 29, 2011
Great route. I didn't climb it as an offwidth and therefore really enjoyed it. After the juggy traverse, I would suggest briefly crawling in the chimney to place a #4 friend above your head and then coming out of the chimney to pull the roof on jugs. We rapped off a large tree up and right which put us right ontop of the anchors. I don't think many people climb this because its intimidating but it's a classic for the grade in NC.
From: Raleigh, NC
Apr 16, 2012
One word pretty much sums it up - Epic.
Jun 10, 2012
I had to ditch all my gear to fit through the final slot, but that forced me to belay off trees up and left which created horrible rope drag. I think next time I would hang the rack from a sling and drag it through the slot so I could build an anchor right after emerging. Double ropes might help too. We tried to rappel off an obvious large tree (~2' diameter) up and right, but our rope wouldn't pull until I added some cord and rap rings around the tree. Using these rings will put you down perfectly on top of the Breaking Rocks anchors and the rope should pull easily.
Excellent climbing under the roof and then some very memorable moves to the finish.
|By gneiss pirate|
Jun 22, 2012
Climbing this pitch was the most fun I've had on a rope in quite a while. I did the squirm and it was glorious, being heckled while up on it just added to the experience. Highly recommended! Belay just past the slot for full value.