This lesser climbed route at the South Face deserves mention, not only because the FA party included the late, great Doc Bayne, But it also packs quite a punch in the first 40 ft. or so with a long, scary runout on 5.8+.
Climb up to Sentry Box Ledge, then start a few feet to the right of Gemini Crack on a fairly steep slab. Climb straight up the slab to a point where where you can finally get something in, then wander to the top on somewhat easier ground.
I gave this route an R because of the first 40ft., but the protection gets a little better after that first pro placement. Take some smaller stuff.
Jp starting up Zodiac with Elena at belay.
Jp finishing up the 8+ R section with Elena belayi...
|By Danny Inman|
Apr 1, 2007
This is a great climb that has a bit of everything. I agree the first 40 feet or so are spicey 5.8. There is solid gear right after the crux.
From: Decatur, GA
Apr 1, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Hats off to Danny for a great lead! The starting section will definitely get your blood pumping.
|By Scott Gilliam|
From: Raleigh, NC
Nov 26, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I had to work for the gear at the start, but there was plenty of it. No R rating, not even PG-13.
Oct 24, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Definitely "feels" harder than other 8s around, but that's only because you have to think and search.