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The Zipper
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Zipper 

Zipper 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 25'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: FA:Dempsey Medford and Rick Hauert, 79' FFA: Rob Robinson, 85'
Page Views: 845
Submitted By: Joey Wolfe on Feb 21, 2008
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The Zipper roof crack

Description 

Climb up easy broken 5th class to the back of the roof and crack. Climb the roof crack via layback and jams. The feet are under you for the first couple of 5.10 moves then its time to wrench your feet into the roof. Finish through a v notch at the lip of the roof. The crack goes from thin hands to rattly hands to desperate fingers.


Location 

Dead center of the boulder/cliff, look up. Hard to miss.


Protection 

.5" to 2" cams. I'd stay away from the passive stuff, didn't you hear how the Zipper got it's name?? Two stout trees to top rope from, bring two long pieces of webbing (30 to 35'), padding for two trees and I padded the lip for the slings due to sharp edges. WARNING!!! if you fall on the easy 5th class you can ground fall. Once you engage the crack you are fine but be aware. Have you belayer anchored down for TR.(Also, if you think you are going to fall before the crack, don't bother going on.)



Photos of Zipper Slideshow Add Photo
I got in the pic so you could gauge the size
BETA PHOTO: I got in the pic so you could gauge the size
From the Chattahoochee River park running path.
BETA PHOTO: From the Chattahoochee River park running path.
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By Joey Wolfe
Feb 21, 2008

I added this route to get people talking about it and check it out. I haven't lead it(project), shit I haven't even done it clean, just in parts. The start has been wet for a couple of weeks now making it a little difficult to work. So if you have lead it, speak up!! I need all the beta i can get at this point.