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Redrock and vicinity
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
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Black Streak TR 
Broken Ankle S,TR 
Chimney T,TR 
Excuse Me T,TR 
Frosty The Boulder 
Happy Feet S 
High Me T,TR 
Hobo's Chimney, The 
Hole in One TR 
Laughing Gull S,TR 
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No Bolt TR 
No Steps TR 
Plank, The T,TR 
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Rip Van Winkle T,TR 
Roll the Bones S 
Scotty Bones TR 
Seappage T,TR 
Slab n' Jab T,TR 
Slip Van Winkle S,TR 
Steps T 
Steps Direct TR 
Stonehenge Slab T,TR 
Swayback T,TR 
Toe Jams T,TR 
Velcro T,TR 
Why Me? TR 
Wings of Steal T 
Wink Van Ripple TR 
Wizard's Hat, The T,TR 
Y - Boulder 
Zipper T,TR 
Zits S 
Unsorted Routes:

Zipper 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: a climber
Page Views: 5,349
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jan 16, 2007  with updates from Joshua Wise

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (65)
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BETA PHOTO: Zipper.

Description 

This is one of the finer routes here. It ascends an obvious crack that is typically laybacked. It just begs to be climbed. The crux is mid-height where it jogs left. Continue up. Enjoy. One of the nicest short routes in New England, IMHO.

Location 

This is on the right side of the crag. Click on this if you can't figure out which line.

Protection 

Easily protected with either cams, hexes or stoppers.


Photos of Zipper Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Perfect Zipper.
Perfect Zipper.
Rock Climbing Photo: Zipper. Difficult to tell what the belayer is doin...
Zipper. Difficult to tell what the belayer is doin...

Comments on Zipper Add Comment
Show which comments
By rdlennon
From: New Hampshire
Mar 20, 2009
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

This would be a noted classic if it were anywhere else. As it is, one of the best routes at the grade in the region.
By DEF
From: Boston, MA
Jul 22, 2013

Thought this was a fantastic route, wished it went on for another 100 feet. Anchors up top currently. I will say, while the climbing itself didn't feel difficult, stopping to place gear from a friction/layback spiced things up a bit, but I'm hardly a veteran leader. I'd come back just to do this again.
By jTaylor
Oct 21, 2013

Great route to work on building confidence free soloing
By Tyler Newcomb
Nov 13, 2013

Great fun route, got my first lead on this! My friend had a single set of stoppers and placed a few prices, then I led it and placed the rest. EDIT: he had one solid stemmed cam he got second hand which he placed as the first piece, a #1 I think.
By Liam Paull
Nov 9, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Beautiful route. Just spicy enough to be interesting.
By Joshua Wise
Nov 26, 2015
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Very good route -- my second trad lead.

Can be reasonably protected with just a set of stoppers, IMO. Protecting the bottom is a *little* bit tenuous with just that (I set a #13 BD stopper 8ft off the ground or so as an upward piece, and it was not a great placement; I imagine someone with more experience could have made it better), but the rest can be protected very easily with a standard #4 - #13 set -- lots of good stances to stitch it up as much or as little as you like.

Florian's comment makes sense, though. It does sound fairly hollow. Maybe good for practicing placing gear, but falling maybe not recommended :-) Luckily the hands are good enough that even when the feet skate on the lieback, it's easy to save...
By Agarciap
Mar 2, 2016

What is needed for a TR set up on Zipper?
By jim.dangle
Mar 3, 2016
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Zipper like most of the climbs here have bolt anchors to top rope from.

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