Zion Shade Seeking in Early Sept

Hey all,

Once this monsoonal flow chills out for a few days and the rock dries out, I am planning on heading North to Zion and am looking to hop on classic, well-protected stuff in the 10- to 11- range or a wall. Or pretty much anything must-do and classic. That being said, what gets shade and is classic? What time of day at this time of year does it receive shade? Temps looking hot after a drying period this next week, so it is of utmost importance to seek the shade.

Thanks!

Weston

The best shade for multi pitch trad routes is Kung Fu Theater. Best routes are Kung Fu Fighter, Mortal Combat and Blood Sport.

Around the corner (west facing, thus morning climb only) is Smash Mouth, outstanding multi-pitch finger crack.

Tunnel Wall is the next best shaded wall for multi pitch free climbing. Some routes get afternoon sun, some are all day shade like Kung Fu. Lap Dance, Gypsy's Curse, POW Right in the Rat and Feast of Snakes are the best. Tons of others are in the shade, for example Chasity Crack is great, but a lot of folks would bitch about how far they had to hike to get on it (hot approach). Cynthia's Hand Job should stoke anyone, but then you have to get on the bus. There are others you can easily combine with it though. The before mentioned two areas just give you a lot of options and you don't have to waste time in the cattle trailers. All are 5.10-5.11 routes, old school compared to Red Rock though.

the headache is a very nice 5.10 in the shade. the kung fu theater is a fun area and so is the cragmont spot. cerburus is the most splitter and creek style area and it in the shade in the afternoon, so you will need to ride the shuttle.

Thanks, guys! Have climbed at Cerberus before and hope to find more routes of similar quality.

Dow, so you're saying the grades are closer to those found in the Black Corridor than to those found in Yosemite Valley? ;-)

Good, then you know Cerberus gets half day sun and I believe your post said you were looking for shade. All the routes I recommended to you are shaded multi-pitch routes with at least one, if not two, Indian Creek quality pitches, but plenty of wide stuff thrown in between so you need to be skilled at off width. If you are looking for sport climbs (the Black Corridor reference), you are better off stopping an hour short in St. George/Utah Hills/Virgin River Gorge or Lime Kiln Canyon near Mesquite. The Headache is the tourist route of Zion, been published in Rock and Ice and Climbing rags. 3 pitches of 5.9+/10-, the easiest route in Zion but also gets afternoon sun. I have hauled no less than 30 folks up it myself, good shade mid morning. Certain routes on Tunnel Wall are totally protected from the sun, Gypsy's Curse, Pick on the Fat Kid, Feast of Snakes, etc...some will receive afternoon sun, Lap Dance, InI, UnU, etc. Kung Fu is mostly all shaded.

Correct, Zion grades are more consistent with Yosemite than Red Rock, but sandstone vs granite. I climb a ton at both. I find granite easier but sandstone more adventuresome, prob because it repels the masses.

Not looking for sporto stuff, plenty of that in the backyard. More intrigued by splitters...also, love the wide stuff.