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ZION Re-bolting effort
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By Rob Warden, Space Lizard
From Springdale Ut
Feb 23, 2014
blah

If people who have any routes that they feel are good candidates for anchor replacement please feel free to make suggestions. I will get to them as soon as possible.

thanks and make a donation to the ASCA


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By Branin
Feb 23, 2014
Just getting a profile pic for now...

Do canyoneering routes count?


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By Rob Warden, Space Lizard
From Springdale Ut
Feb 24, 2014
blah

the gear has been Donated and purchased for Rock Climbing only... I thought the whole point of canyoning was to make it sketchy? I also have little interest in re-bolting canyons


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By Shiho
Mar 5, 2014

Riddler's delight? Thanks in advance for your effort!


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By Trevor
From Cottonwood Heights, UT
Mar 5, 2014
Solo Ascent - October 21, 2008 - taken from Scout's Lookout

What's up Shiho?! I don't recall any bolts on Riddler's as needing replaced. I don't recall clipping many anyway. I DO recall climbing over some of the worst rock I've encountered in Zion on the last pitch however...

The plane wreck in the descent gully is kinda cool...


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By Shiho
Mar 5, 2014

Didn't you tell me that the last anchor was bad on this route? I haven't done the route precisely because of what I thought you had told me... Anyway, Trevor, I have been meaning to get in touch with you to ask about Zion beta. Will txt you later.


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By Luke Stefurak
From Mountain View, CA
Mar 5, 2014
Below "Inspect Her Gadget" at HP40 after sending it the previous day.

I was planning on doing a cleanup on Monkeyfinger and Shune's next month.

Was gonna work with ASCA to get some glue ins and some fat 1/2" stainless bolts...

Could use a hand with some drilling/ropework/etc. Expecting to do a 2 day project to get Monkey Finger fixed up and then 1 day on Shune's

I've already talked to Dave Jones about fixing the anchors on Shune's to avoid that hanging belay. He was game. I was a little shocked to see one of Zion's more popular route covered in tat.

Looking to be in town the 2nd week of April or so.

- Luke


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By Shiho
Mar 5, 2014

what's wrong with Shune's and monkey finger? I thought all those anchors were fine. I guess the first bolt on the chimney pitch on monkeyfinger is a spinner.


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By Luke Stefurak
From Mountain View, CA
Mar 5, 2014
Below "Inspect Her Gadget" at HP40 after sending it the previous day.

I mean they are "safe" and all but so much tat and way too many bolts.

One anchor on Shune's has 5 different bolts equalized together. A few spinners, a 1/4" and some other junk.

The top rap anchor also is not so great. One good bolt but the other bolt is sticking out of the rock by over an inch.

A bunch of the pro bolts on the last pitch of Monkey's Finger and on the slab are still 1/4" and look like crap.

I'd rather clean all the tat. Nice climbing but crappy fixed gear.

- Luke


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By Greg G
From SLC, UT
Mar 6, 2014
The route in it's entirety.

Voodoo Rooves please.


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By karl kvashay
From beaver utah
Mar 10, 2014

Hi guys/gals, I have some free time coming up. If you need a hand with your efforts let me know


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By atrau
Mar 10, 2014

Rob Warden,

I applaud your effort here!

though I like the old crappy bolts, and the flexing angles just fine to clip I imagine others do not; so thank you for doing this.

A suggestion is to use only glue in bolts. I understand this topic is debatable to which is better. But to go up Moonlight Buttress and see those new, exceptional done anchors that are glue ins; I believe this can be the new standard in the desert sandstone.

There are expansion bolts that were placed no more than 5 years ago that are in worse shape than some angles placed 20-30 years ago. A well placed glue it will get at least 10 years of life in Zion, and possible much longer: those bolts on Moonlight will be a great indicator.

Good work for taking on this project and remember, safety third in Zion!

Rob Schwarzmann


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By notmyname
From Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 14, 2014

monkeyfinger anchors fo sho
Move rap anchors on iron messiah more to the left


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By Max Tepfer
From Bend, OR
Mar 14, 2014

Touchstone descent! (not rapping the route, but the canyon climber's right of the route) Some of those bolts are junk!

+1 for Monkeyfinger. The drilled angles on the 2nd to last pitch are eye-opening. (though replacing them would dramatically change the nature of the pitch...)


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By Ethan Newman
Apr 5, 2014

+1 for the touchstone descent. Most of those bolts are complete shit. Olevsky seemed to have the magic touch for bomber drilled angles, though.

Warden, you and I should just get industrial on that descent with decent bolts and chains in the touchstone canyon descent.

Also, thanks for putting up the lower offs at the confluence. You're the man, man.


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By scottso
1 day ago

Just did Scarlet Begonias yesterday and both hangers are spinning.


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