Zinnea's Zen 5.11b
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11b [details] |
| FA: | Mike Reardon, Leigha Dickens |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Mike Reardon on Nov 2, 2011 |
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Description Thin and powerful moves up a STEEP section of Lakeview highlighted with basketball size holes. 3 bolts were hand drilled on rappel. The route is named after my newborn daughter. P1: 5.11b 100 ft. Dyno or make small crimps to a big starter jug, pull a hard mantle/crimp to clip the first bolt. Work balancy moves to another 'thank god' jug and clip a 2nd bolt. Get a yellow TCU in a horizontal, then traverse left towards a large hole and a 'hand in glove' red link cam pocket placement. Clip a final bolt, then up a blank 9+ slab to the good gear belay ledge P2: 5,7+ 100 ft. Take the path of the most gear to the tree directly overhead.
Location Far right side of Lakeview, Right of squeeze job and starts right behind a tree. Resist the temptation to use the tree while climbing, or don't.
Protection Standard Rack Walk off or rap the tree to the ground
By Mike Reardon Nov 2, 2011
| Still waiting a free ascent- I fell a lot. |
By Leigha Dickens From: Asheville, NC Nov 6, 2011
| I'd like to lead the 2nd pitch, as well, so let's go! 511b does seem appropriate for the 1st pitch without the three. Maybe 5.10 with the tree. |
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