|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, 400', Grade II|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]|
|FA:||Chip Chace, Monika Lou|
|Submitted By:||D-Storm on Jan 13, 2009|
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Ziji||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Jan 13, 2009
|This is the most perfect tower route I've ever done. It's direct, exposed and sustained, with minimal choss navigation at the very bottom and very top. However, don't expect the typical crag test-piece experience. This is a tower test piece -- meaning there will almost certainly be some sand in the cracks that can add real and psychological difficulty. Be ready for it and have a good time!|
Jan 15, 2009
most belays are single pin (except the top of p2), so you may want a couple extra pieces for that.
By charley graham
Nov 26, 2009
|According to Eric Bjornstad in the 1988 AAJ, Chip Chace and Monika Lou put this one up.|
By Scott Bennett
Mar 19, 2010
Definitely the best tower route I've done, highly recommended. A few notes:
Gear (this is what I would bring next time): Med. Stoppers (BD #5-9), 1x Black Alien, 2x Blue and Green Aliens, 5x Yellow Alien, 9x Purple Camalot, 2x Green Camalot, 1x Red Camalot. We brought a #5 C4 for the first pitch, and used it twice (backcleaning the first placement), and then lowered it back to the ground from atop P1.
You could get by with fewer purple camalots, maybe 7, but having a ton was nice so that I could double up at good stances.
A single 70m rope gets you down. One rappel north into the notch between King of Paine and the main BJ Butte (70m required!), then two raps to the ground.