|474 page views|
Start in the "zigzagging" cracks that have a little rail in between them. Once high enough to clip the first bolt, traverse left and then continue up on some sweet chicken head/slab moves to clip one more bolt. Pass a horizontal crack and then enter a 10' easy lieback section to the anchor
I think this might actually be two different routes. For the actual "Zig-Zag" you are not supposed to traverse left, but continue up the crack. And the face route is actually "Center Slab Left." ?
To the right and around the corner of the chicken head slab route. To the left and around the corner of Orangutan.
Small pro for the zigzags and the horizontal will take like .5"-1" (or something like that)
Two bolt anchor
|By Richard Shore|
Aug 14, 2013
Don't pass up any protection opportunities early on this route - sustained 5.9 moves coming right away on slippery polished knobs and ground fall potential getting into the second crack. Thoughtful and engaging. With substantial sling-age one can link into the Freedom Roof (5.10-) for an awesome ~150' pitch.