Ziggie's Day Out 5.10d
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| Consensus: | 5.10c/d [details] |
| FA: | Mark Wilford, 1978 |
| Submitted By: | Charles Vernon on Jan 1, 2001 |
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On the fun rightward traverse to the crux. This wa...
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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice:
Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation.
Alligator Rock is also closed.
www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description A fantastic and unusual crack climb that is found on Checkerboard Rock, the small, 200 foot high buttress directly below Batman Rock. The thin crack remains continuous for a full pitch while wildly zigging and zagging across a steep slab. Do not attempt this climb unless you are skilled at making very finicky and creative placements with small wires! Find the crack on the far west side of the rock. It heads diagonally up right and then gets horizontal (5.9), heads straight up and fades considerably (crux), then slashes back left presenting a thin and scary 5.10 finale. From the belay ledge, traverse down and left to the bolt anchor of Ziggie's Brother Hank, or continue to the top in a 5.9 hand crack.
Protection Bring RPs and other small pieces, up to a #3 Friend.
Pulling into the crux moves. The crux is over when...
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M. Miller at the crux
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| Comments on Ziggie's Day Out |
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By Anonymous Coward
Nov 24, 2001
| One of the coolest pitches I've seen on Lumpy. RPs are fun! |
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Boulder, CO
May 23, 2004
rating: 5.10d
| In the Gillett guide this is the only route on Checkerboard with three stars. I thought Ziggie's was good, but think Checkerboard Crack and Rainy Day Woman are better and more interesting.
The crux of Ziggie's is short and top roped. The crux for me was not the moves but rather stopping in the middle of the moves to place 2 brass nuts and then downclimbing. After getting the good holds above the bulge you can place another brass nut to protect the final moves over the bulge. A very good #2 Friend/0.75 Camalot helps you relax at the stance above the crux. Insecure moves with decent gear lead to the top of the crack. Marginal tiny brass protect the last few moves. I moved left about 6 feet onto the steep slab to a flake. Finishing up the no-pro crack looked dirty and hard, and climbing right of the crack looked impossible. Is moving left correct ?
The initial traverese right on the undercling flakes is fun with with good gear and one hard move (9 or 9+).
Gear: 2+ sets of brass nuts. I used Astros and HB offsets. Single set bigger nuts to maybe 1/2". 2 sets micro cams to 1", singles to #2 Friend. Long runners.
Question: Has anyone climbed the first half of Checkerboard and the left angling crack to the crux of Ziggie's? That would be a straighter line. Seems like the climbs on this wall are all a bit illogical, but that's due to history. Using a "straightness" criteria, Checkerboard Crack should start on Rainy Day Woman. Ziggie's should start on Checkerboard Crack. Ziggie's Brother Hank should start on Ziggie's Day out. |
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Jun 19, 2005
| The crux IS NOT 'toproped". |
By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
Oct 8, 2007
| This pitch is pretty cool but I found it sandbagged at 10d. |
By qGracey
From: Estes Park
Sep 23, 2010
| Climbed this today. Tricky pro is continuous as are the 5.10/border 5.11 moves. Great classic Lumpy pitch, if you are in to that sort of thing!!!! The route to the left is also a bit heady. |
By Clay McMasters
From: Longmont, CO
Dec 25, 2012
rating: 5.10c
| I always thought this was a great pitch & a nice trad challenge tossing in RPs along the way. |
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