A good face climb (protected primarily by bolts) in a somewhat questionable position, as it crosses the classic crack line of Ziggie's Day Out. Start just above the large block on the left side of Checkerboard Rock. Climb up to a bolt, using a short crack for pro, clip it and make 5.10 moves to attain the zig-zag crack of Ziggie's Day Out. Place a tcu, and continue up a steep wall past more bolts to a hidden 2-bolt anchor. Many will be comfortable without any gear other than QDs.
Bring a few small stoppers and TCUs, otherwise about 7 or 8 QDs.
Approaching the first bolt. From the ground it loo...
High stepping at the first bolt. There are several...
Gear, finally. You'll want some small cams here. Y...
|By Charles Vernon|
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 1, 2001
I've probably overestimated the amount of QDs needed for this climb...there are only 3 or 4 bolts.
|By S. Kimball|
Jun 1, 2003
Charles, you underestimated the amount of quickdraws...3 bolts, the 1st is rusted and cratered out gives litte confidence for the runout 5.10 above. Definitely R rated. Gear on Ziggie's and before and after the bolts eems mandatory? Definitely "old school" .
|By david goldstein|
Sep 23, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
I agree with SK that most people are not going to be particularly happy with the rusty bolts on this climb, especially the critical first which protects a 15' runout and whose guts are exposed, nor are they going to feel overprotected even with supplemental gear.
From: San Diego, CA
May 20, 2006
Climbed this pitch as a warm-up to Ziggie's, it's quite good, but definitely "old school" The first bolt is rusty and spinning (you're hoping it's a 3.5 incher). Then, you launch into a 20 foot runout at 5.10, place a TCU and a nut in the Ziggie's cracks, step up to a good stance and the first of 2 bolts. Climb thru the bolts at 5.10 again (spicy), and reach a good undercling (the first good hold in a while). Fire in a 1.5" cam, and cruise on good holds to the anchors. It's a good precursor to Ziggie's, but you better be in slab shape.