Zig-zag Crack  5.11-

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Type:  Trad, 70 feet Consensus:  5.11- [details] FA:  Submitted By:  Aaron Hobson on Nov 18, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Stephen Peinado working on the cruxy start

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Description 

A blackened crack-corner system with three distinct steep sections which can be construed as "zig-zags". The bottom of the cliff is undercut, and the crux is simply pulling into the crack, with technical stemming. The second steep section is the minor crux, with more technical stemming to gain a bomber hand-jam. After the third section is a nice ledge. From here the climb breaks left onto the face and gains a thin crack in hardened patina, surrounded by chossier rock.

Location 

On the south face of the Garden spire. A giant Sotol bush at the top of the Zig-zags helps mark the route.

Protection 

2 bolts at the top allow for easy top-rope setting. For the traditionalist, a set of wires with emphasis on the smaller sizes, and a slim set of cams should be adequate. The initial crack offers solid protection, but the thin patina crack near the top is only as solid as the patina, which may be questionable. However, it is easier (5.7). Placing gear for the crux may be difficult. A good trick for shorter climbers is to sling two nuts together and gently "whip" the top nut into a bomber placement just out of reach. Otherwise the the crux requires a good spotter.

Photos of Zig-zag Crack Slideshow

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Eugene on his favorite climb

BETA PHOTO: The Zig of Zag