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Zeus S 

Zeus 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: (TR) Eric Z, FL: Harrison Dekker
Page Views: 3,841
Submitted By: bldrite on Jul 6, 2007

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Seth Tart on Zeus (5.13b).

Photo by David Hill.

Description 

Incredible steep route in an amazing setting. Difficult crux at 3rd bolt, tough redpoint crux at fixed pin (5th piece on route). Tough technical face to finish. Great exposure.

Location 

This route is located in the Hanging Garden area of Moore's Wall.

Protection 

NC sport route. 6 bolts, 1 pin. Two bolt anchor.


Photos of Zeus Slideshow Add Photo
Dekker on 1st ascent on Zeus. photo PJ
Dekker on 1st ascent on Zeus. photo PJ
Greg Loomis shaking out at the rest
Greg Loomis shaking out at the rest
Robert Fogle working on Zeus
Robert Fogle working on Zeus
Harrison Dekker on Zeus (5.13b), Moore's Wall. Photo by Porter Jarrard (1989).
Harrison Dekker on Zeus (5.13b), Moore's Wall. Pho...
Greg Loomis holding the swing after the lunge
Greg Loomis holding the swing after the lunge
Robert Fogle on Zeus
Robert Fogle on Zeus
Greg Loomis reaching the second crux
Greg Loomis reaching the second crux

Comments on Zeus Add Comment
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By Christopher Barlow
Sep 26, 2008
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

CONDITION REPORT 
As of Sept. '08, there are fixed draws on all but one bolt of Zeus. Other than the crux draw, which has a screw-link connecting it to the bolt, the draws appear to be disintegrating remnants of previous projecting instead of fixed gear installed for convenience. To me, it seems prudent to install high quality, camouflaged wire or chain draws on such a classic route. The other option, in keeping with Moore's tradition ethic, would be to clean the draws and let each suitor hang his or her own. The route would be somewhat frustrating to clean but not that bad with tramming into the anchor bolt on the ledge. Other ideas or input?
By porter jarrard
Mar 18, 2009

Dekker (not Decker) Originally another EZ toprope problem, but I convinced him to let me bolt it. Can you imagine a free toprope on this thing trying to figure-out the opening moves? How far down the slab did he have to climb-up from after I lowered him? So....HD got the FA