Incredible steep route in an amazing setting. Difficult crux at 3rd bolt, tough redpoint crux at fixed pin (5th piece on route). Tough technical face to finish. Great exposure.
This route is located in the Hanging Garden area of Moore's Wall.
NC sport route. 6 bolts, 1 pin. Two bolt anchor.
Dekker on 1st ascent on Zeus. photo PJ
Greg Loomis shaking out at the rest
Robert Fogle working on Zeus
Harrison Dekker on Zeus (5.13b), Moore's Wall. Pho...
Greg Loomis holding the swing after the lunge
Greg Loomis reaching the second crux
By Christopher Barlow
Sep 26, 2008
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
As of Sept. '08, there are fixed draws on all but one bolt of Zeus. Other than the crux draw, which has a screw-link connecting it to the bolt, the draws appear to be disintegrating remnants of previous projecting instead of fixed gear installed for convenience. To me, it seems prudent to install high quality, camouflaged wire or chain draws on such a classic route. The other option, in keeping with Moore's tradition ethic, would be to clean the draws and let each suitor hang his or her own. The route would be somewhat frustrating to clean but not that bad with tramming into the anchor bolt on the ledge. Other ideas or input?
By porter jarrard
Mar 18, 2009
Dekker (not Decker) Originally another EZ toprope problem, but I convinced him to let me bolt it. Can you imagine a free toprope on this thing trying to figure-out the opening moves? How far down the slab did he have to climb-up from after I lowered him? So....HD got the FA