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Lizard Head Wall
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Unsorted Routes:

Zesty 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Dallen Ward
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,636
Submitted By: Sunny-D on Jun 12, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (49)
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First ascent of Zesty 5.8+ After a lot of cleaning...

Description 

This route starts 30 feet left of Squeeze My Lemon. It goes up a patina face to a bolt then a crack that eventually joins SML 10 feet from the old belay tree. Face climb up to a right leaning crack. The crack starts off fingers and goes into a beautiful hand crack that you have to climb to believe. Was full of scrub oak until it was cleaned out. Really fun route that adds to the area. Watch your rappel/lower I use a 70M rope. Some who have climbed say a 60M works, but to be safe tie your end.

Location 

30 feet left of the start of Squeeze My Lemon on a cool patina face

Protection 

2 bolts and gear from small nuts to #4 BD cam(optional). Bolt and chain anchor at the top


Photos of Zesty Slideshow Add Photo
Zesty
BETA PHOTO: Zesty
The upper crack on Zesty
The upper crack on Zesty

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By tenesmus
Jun 12, 2008

This crack is really fantastic. There is a nice green varnish inside that treats your hands nicely. Dallen worked long hours to clean the trees out of that crack. You can also traverse in from SML to the bottom of this crack for a nice way to finish that climb.
By James Garrett
Jul 11, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This is a good climb. Grades are difficult and so relative for each and every climber, but given that Satans Corner seems to be 5.8 standard for LCC, it puts the 5.8 grade into a proper perspective. Maybe most of you disagree, but Satans Corner is certainly a harder climb for me than Zesty...I just don't see where the "+" comes into the picture for the latter. I mean, Satans Corner may just be a whole number grade harder than Zesty....maybe all pedantics in the final analysis, but I am happy Zesty is here to stay and open to the public for many to enjoy. Consider it a soft or unhomogenous 5.8.
With that said, I have certainly over and under rated a lot of climbs throughout the years
By grk10vq
Administrator
Jul 12, 2008

rating this one was difficult. i thought a class IV scramble seemed more accurate.
By sfotex
From: Sandy, UT
Aug 15, 2008

Fun climb, I think the SML linkup is the way to do this - you get crack all the way and the traverse over is easy with good feet and protects well.
By Sir Camsalot
From: thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Aug 19, 2008

Agreed. Best to start in the SML crack and traverse over. I thought it was 5.8. Harder than Bushwhack or Callitwhatyouplease and easier than Satan's. Whatever the grade, its another one of those cracks in LCC that you wish was 100 ft. longer.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Sep 22, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Excellent route. Starting from the lowest point of the face has some fun face moves, the mantle halfway through is really exciting, and the crack is amazing. Can be liebacked easily if you're sketched, or jammed for maximum fun. A micro protects the slab moves at the bottom, then double #1 and #2 to sew it up. A #.5 and #.75 protect the bottom of the crack and the pinched section.
Definitely 8+ and hard to compare with Satan which is steeper but lacks the LCC lean, meaning you get both feet in the crack and you might as well be standing on a ledge. Not so much on Zesty...
Great work on cleaning this one!!
By zoso
Dec 9, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

For the record: We rated it 5.8+ for the mantle/friction at the 2nd bolt. The crack itself is probably 5.8ish.
By Michael Buchanan
Apr 26, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

ZESTY mantel!
By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Apr 21, 2012

Second only to Satan's as the best 5.8 in lcc
By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 29, 2014

The funky friction move at the second bolt is a pretty honest 5.8+ move. The crack is crazy good. Placing that many #2s and #3s in a row is something usually reserved a 5.10 at Indian Creek.