A classic Bridwell line, from the mid-80's, involving some serious hook sections, though they're all bomber hooks, as if there were such a thing. Bat hooks under the 9 o'clock roof are quick to move through, the difficult sections are rated "A2+ AWK" in the SuperTaco guidebook.
Ivo and Ammon climbed this line as a Grade IV in '05 (?), taking 18 hrs (IIRC)... but then, they're not exactly mortals, are they? You should plan on 4-6 days.
Steep route, beginning at the el-cap pipe (the large piece of stone leaning against the wall just left of Zodiac). Look closely, pack that bowl and hit it before you hit the stone for the haul on P1. With a 70M haul line, it's possible to make the first haul from the P2 anchors. Keep an eye out for bear-46 though, it's amazing how quickly that fucker can move in on an un-attended haul bag sitting on the ground!
All anchors are dyno-mite, the gear anchor at the top of the "Left Hand of Darkness" takes up to #4 Camalots. Hhowever, what with the bats flying in and out all night long I wouldn't recommend bivying here. With offset cams, probably get a C4 rating(?). AFAIK, it's been done hammerless, but wait till late season to try to ride that horse. Early season, many of the fixed heads are of a questionable nature due to the freeze/thaw cycle of winter.
|By Ryan Huetter|
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Apr 27, 2008
Good description. Wish a few of the others were the same!
From: Sacramento, CA
Jul 2, 2008
I believe the new Supertaco lists several A4 sections on this route. It is a fantastic route with just enough pucker factor to make you sweat a little. Some great features on the route.
|By Jacek Czyz|
From: Denver, Chicago, Poland
Feb 11, 2010
Did it solo in 10 days as first Polish solo grade VI and real A4. At 4-th day at the morning (pitch 7) take huge 80' fall (my fault). So I easy down and after that climb 1 pitch per day.
10 years ago me, my friend (did solo too) and Mc from Taco, all rate only one pitch as A4 but everyone different. So I think the best rating is (was?) 5.8 A4- for entire route.
|By Marcus garcia|
From: Durango, Co.
Apr 16, 2011
I did this route at the first of May in 2008, I feel it was A4 as well. I had to place a lot of small head in between the blown heads on the second pitch, which I felt I could take a huge fall before I got a single good piece. Over all the route is sustain climbing and the hooking is just great with just enough spice.
Loved this routs
Jan 21, 2012
FA: Jim Bridwell, Peter Mayfield, Charlie Row, 1981
FCA(99%, used hammer lightly, 2 times): Peter Mayfield, Braden Mayfield, 2001