Unclipping the second bolt on the crux headwall (t...
Begin about 200 feet down and left from the high point of the approach ramp.
P1. Start at a bolt or climb a hand crack ten feet to the right. Gain a finger crack that leads to a short headwall with three bolts (crux). On the last bolt, place a long sling, climb up and right along a ramp and gain a two-bolt anchor.
P2. Climb the second pitch of Long Dong Dihedral (to the left) and belay at a two-bolt anchor after 50 feet.
P3. Follow seven bolts and a finger crack (Stoppers) up through the middle of the NW face of the south tower. (10c 80 ft.) The bolt on the summit is bent so you'll need a few pieces to anchor on the summit.
The first pitch provides 5.9 trad, and great 5.11 sport. The last provides solid 5.10 moves with great exposure.
A fairly large hand and foothold broke off the crux in the summer of 2002, making it quite a bit harder than 11a.
By Ivan Rezucha From: Fort Collins, CO Sep 8, 2004 rating: 5.11d7a24VIII25E5 6a
The "11a" Zentropa was to be our easier end of day climb. That was not to be. After many hangs, I aided it. I should have checked out this site before going there, but I didn't know we were going to Dream Canyon. But I was redeemed when I got home and learned that a hold had broken off. The broken hold appears to have been left of the third bolt. The climbing to where the hold once was feels like 11a or so, strenuous on the fingers. Clipping the third bolt will be very strenuous on the fingers (I clipped it on aid). At that point feet more or less run out, and the handholds get worse. I was able to slap left around the arete, but there's nothing there--smooth and round. Looks like you need very strong fingers or very good footwork, preferably both. There is a 4th bolt just left of the arete not mentioned above or in Rossiter. This bolt seems useless except to aid around onto the slab (and then it's very useful!).
Unfortunately, with the key hold now gone, the quality of the route is diminished. The rock is still as good as before (better now that the apparently fragile hold is gone), but the route is very inconsistent in difficulty now.
I'm calling this 11d, but it may be harder. It is way harder than The Deep (11c) which I got clean earlier in the day, and way harder than Sargasso Sea (11c/d/12a), which I got with a few hangs last year. But it's also a different kind of climbing. Crimpy and steep rather than technical slab moves.
Note that above the crux it is a long but easy (5.4?) runout on a slab to the anchors. Maybe 30'. If you move left on the slab it's really pretty easy, and gets easier and more positive the higher you go.
Wow! The last pitch of Zentropa is amazing. It is now one of my favorite pitches in Dream Canyon. We linked the climb "unknown w/ red hangers" to Zentropa for an excellent 3-pitch tour up the South Tower of Lost Angel. Not to be missed.
I set up this really nice route with Gail Effron during the summer of 1997. The final moves at the top of the first pitch were very difficult BEFORE a hold broke off. 5.11a was a sandbag in the first place. The route to the right of this with red hangers was called Diabloque. See Rock Climbing Boulder Canyon, A Falcon Guide, 1999. I placed the bolts, but I thought the whole thing was weird and lacked continuity, so I never went back to redpoint it. I probably should have just stuck with it. It's all great rock over there.